I sent this a couple of days again but never seen it show up in email? Having
problems getting youtube videos to run too.
Terry
KI7M
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: terry burge <ki7m@comcast.net>
> To: topband@contesting.com, terry burge <ki7m@comcast.net>
> Date: 06/04/2020 10:37 PM
> Subject: Fwd: Re: Topband: Adding connectoirs to CATV Hardline
>
>
> FYI...
>
> A friend provided a 4 ft. spool of 1/2" hardline 75 ohm stuff from a lot he
> was cleaning up of what appeared to be Comscope coax. Size was 0.595" outside
> diameter aluminum (no black covering, silver) with copper center conductor of
> 0.122" best I could figure with my Harbor Freight 'Pittsburg' measuring
> device. Inner shield 0.35" or so. On the internet I found a site that showed
> how to use PL-259 with hardline and two sizes of brass tubing. Don't remember
> the sizes but they were something like 9/16" and maybe one size down.
> Required splitting an end of the brass tubing and trying to get a good fit
> over the outside of the back-to-back SO-239's.
> I used the double SO-259's instead of PL-259's.
>
> Would then use double layers of heat shrink tubing and screw down hose clamps
> to give it some strength. The copper center conductor required trying to add
> solder to build up it's diameter to to fit tight enough inside the SO-239's.
> Tough task I can tell you. Wasn't a real strong connection so you had to be
> careful especially if pulling on the connection up on the tower or on the
> ground. Still it seemed to work but the jury is still out at my location.
> Could not see any other way to do this than maybe using wire jumpers like
> some Baluns use.
>
> You might look for the site and/or trying to develop something like this.
> Like I said, the connection had to be used gently. 75 ohm coax to 50 ohm
> connection so maybe some creative thought on that.
>
> Terry
> KI7M
>
> > ---------- Original Message ----------
> > From: RT Clay <rt_clay@bellsouth.net>
> > To: topband@contesting.com
> > Date: June 4, 2020 at 12:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: Topband: Adding connectoirs to CATV Hardline
> >
> > Plumbing parts work, but the problem is that there is a lot of catv
> > hardline that is an odd size. For example, I have some 0.412 inch diameter
> > cable and some 0.540 inch cable. That is what motivated me to learn how to
> > use pin connectors.
> >
> > Tor N4OGW
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thursday, June 4, 2020, 2:00:38 PM CDT, <lee@k7tjr.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> > There is an article in one of the ham magazines from years ago that
> > describes how to make an adapter from brass tubing compression sleve
> > fittings (from auto parts store) that adapts from 1/2 inch CATV Hardline
> > cable to UHF male connectors RG-8 size. Anti-oxidants required. I have been
> > doing this for years with no problems at 1500 watts. There is a pair on my
> > 80 meter 4-square as we speak. Its been so long that I have since forgotten
> > where the article was. Perhaps an internet search would bring it up. I
> > would write something up but I have my hands full at the moment with
> > cleaning up after a tornado like storm with 100 MPH winds that went right
> > over my house. Minimal damage except for the top 1/3 of my 160 vertical and
> > lots of tall trees down in what's left of the yard. All else is fine with
> > nothing I can't repair.
> > Good luck.
> > Lee K7TJR Culver OR
> >
> >
> >
> > Clamps do work ok with CATV hardline, but you have to be careful as it is
> > very easy to crush the hardline. Also, waterproofing is always a pain.
> >
> > As W7WKR posted, I also adapt pin connectors, which are the standard way of
> > terminating catv hardline. Here are some comments:
> >
> > Pin connectors have the same thread size (5/8") that is found on so-239s or
> > N connectors. They are fairly cheap to buy new or can be found on ebay. One
> > difficulty with pin connectors compared to many other hardline connectors
> > is that it is nearly impossible to install them on catv hardline unless you
> > have a coring tool of the right size to fit the hardline. This is because
> > the pin connectors clamp onto the shield from both sides, so you have to
> > completely remove the insulation from the hardline for 1-2" back up into
> > the cable. Coring tools are > $100 new, but I have found them used for
> > $20-$40. The used ones are often pretty worn out: however, with care you
> > can sharpen the cutting parts with a file or stone, which makes a big
> > difference. It can also be tricky to figure out how much center conductor
> > you need sticking out for a given pin connector- some of the connectors
> > have little tick marks on the outside that show the correct length to cut
> > the center conductor.
> >
> > Once you have the pin connector on, then:
> >
> > 1. For type N: the body of a "clamp" type N connector will screw directly
> > onto the pin connector (discard the smaller clamp part with male threads
> > that normally goes on the RG-8). I just cut the pin to length and file the
> > end down to a point. You do have to be careful that the point is not too
> > wide, otherwise it might break the female contact.
> >
> > 2. For UHF: there are similar clamp-type UHF connectors available with the
> > same 5/8 thread in the connector body. Here is one example:
> >
> > https://www.w5swl.com/Coax-Connector-UHF-Female-Clamp-fits-RG-8AU-RG-213-Series-Cable--by-W5SWL_p_466.html
> >
> > just cut the pin to the right length, solder on the center female
> > connector, and screw the body on.
> >
> > 3. You can also just drill a hole in a metal box and attach the pin
> > connector with a nut meant to go on SO239s.
> >
> > There are also splice connectors to join two pieces of hardline. These are
> > nice because they don't require any waterproofing. There are also some that
> > end in an F connector instead of a pin.
> >
> > Tor
> > N4OGW
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > r
> >
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