When not going through authorized distributors it is possible to pick up
counterfeit parts made to emulate good parts or good parts that are old
or didn't pass inspection. That's most hazardous when you don't have a
good capacitor checker to inspect the bargain parts. I don't like to use
electrolytics more than ONE year old when I can read the date code. Some
have used a private code that's not easy to break.
Yes the distributor gets more money for the good parts, 30 cents to $2
vs 12 to 65 cents each for the junk.
Remember the PC board is stressed by the unsoldering and soldering and
if overheated the foil will lift. A good supply of solder wick 3/16 and
1/4 inch wide is handy to have too. Putting in cheap parts that prove to
be poor quality can be hard on the PC board.
73, Jerry, K0CQ
On 1/1/2011 5:15 PM, Joe Roberts wrote:
> Check out this list.
>
> http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/alm_mini/list_f.htm
>
> You can find a lot of these "P" series Nichicons on ebay in lots for
> cheap. Try to spot the date codes in the pics.
>
> Also Sanyo Os-Con solid caps are good and "motherboard" caps (for large
> value PS caps).
>
> 105 degree rating is a good marker, then look them up.
>
> Joe N5KAT
>
>
>
> On 1/1/2011 6:07 PM, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson wrote:
>> Mouser Xicon ESRL series. Maybe Nichicon UPW series which is also
>> carried by Digi-Key.
>>
>> 73, Jerry, K0CQ
>>
>> On 1/1/2011 4:46 PM, Al Gulseth wrote:
>>> Jerry,
>>>
>>> Can you give some specifics as to recommended mfg. and part series for said
>>> caps (from Mouser/DigiKey etc.)? I have several vintage TTs that could
>>> probably use that treatment....
>>>
>>> TNX/73, Al
>>>
>>> On Sat January 1 2011 2:00:14 pm tentec-request@contesting.com wrote:
>>>> Miniature electrolytics are ripe for replacement due to old age. Go for
>>> low ESR high temperature rated for the best performance and long life.
>>> Don't forget those on the display board.<
>>>
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>>
>
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