Used color as well. When mapping a tower, 100’, 300’ or 1500’ you need to know
what coax goes where. Color codes and the number of bands each color has helps.
On cell towers it tells you what sector they are for at the equipment inside.
Same a ham. What antenna.
Scotch 33 does a fine job. When you use butyl as a coax seal and don’t put a
“courtesy” wrap as Steve mentioned you may as well just cut the coax or
hardline off rather than trying to get to the connector. It sticks so well it’s
a pain. With a wrap of scotch, you can just slice all the way down to the
connector and peel it off.
Dave n4zkf
From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> on behalf of W7TMT - Patrick
<W7TMT@outlook.com>
Date: Monday, April 21, 2025 at 12:57 PM
To: John Webster NN1SS <nn1ssnh@gmail.com>, Chuck Dietz <w5prchuck@gmail.com>,
towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections
The Scotch branded colored tapes I buy and use for color coding electrical
wires/cables for marine use is type 35. Its about the same thickness as 33 but
has a slightly less aggressive adhesive and has less stretch as well. Still a
high-quality tape but it doesn't seem to be the same as 33 from my experience.
Just my observation of course.
73
Patrick, W7TMT
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of John Webster
NN1SS
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2025 09:40
To: Chuck Dietz <w5prchuck@gmail.com>; towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections
Yes. Scotch 33. I typically find it at hardware stores or the big box home
improvement stores in the same place where they keep the Scotch 88.
The point is to reduce the heat that could transfer to underlying connectors in
the summer (I live in NH) and preserve the integrity of the weather seal. YMMV
but it works for me.
John
NN1SS
On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 12:13 PM Chuck Dietz <w5prchuck@gmail.com> wrote:
> White Scotch 33?
>
> Chuck W5PR
>
> On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 10:46 AM n4zkf n4zkf.com <n4zkf@n4zkf.com> wrote:
>
> > You got that right! If you ever want to get it off again when using
> Butyl.
> >
> >
> > David Calder
> > n4zkf@n4zkf.com
> > www.n4zkf.com<http://www.n4zkf.com>
> > Dxc.n4zkf.com port:7373<dxc.n4zkf.com:7373> n4zkf/r 147.375 MHz Tone
> > 103.5
> >
> >
> > From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> on behalf of
> > Steve Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
> > Date: Saturday, April 19, 2025 at 11:44 PM
> > To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections In any case, one
> > must use a "courtesy" wrap under the nuclear stuff to avoid loud
> > swearing in the future.
> >
> > Scotch 33 or 88 works OK for that, but the best courtesy wrap is a
> > layer of silicone tape.
> >
> > -Steve K8LX
> >
> > On 04/19/25 4:29 PM, Steve Jones wrote:
> > > Interesting...I use the exact opposite procedure. I first wrap
> > > the connector with Scotch 88, with a little fold at the end for
> > > easy
> > unwrapping.
> > > Then cover everything with the self-fusing Coax Seal. If I need
> > > to get
> > to
> > > the connector, I scrape the sticky stuff away from the little
> > > fold,
> then
> > > unwrap everything off to reveal a shiny clean connector.
> > > 73,
> > > Steve
> > > N6SJ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: TowerTalk<towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of Jim
> Brown
> > > Sent: Friday, April 18, 2025 10:56 PM To:towertalk@contesting.com
> > > Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections
> > >
> > > On 4/18/2025 3:12 PM, Brian Beezley wrote:
> > >> Has anyone tried this method?:
> > >>
> > >> https://tinyurl.com/mr3n2htx
> > > Neighbor W6GJB and I, who have worked together on antennas for
> > > 10-15
> > years,
> > > have tried a lot of methods. I've used heat shrink selectively to
> > > solve specific problems, but not to cover connections completely.
> > >
> > > One of the issues with any connection is that we often need to
> > > open
> them
> > up
> > > to change something, or to troubleshoot an issue. The method we
> > > settled
> > on
> > > some years ago is to first wrap the connection with a self-fusing
> > silicone
> > > product like Rescue Tape, then cover it with an overlapped wrap of
> > Scotch 88
> > > to protect it both physically and from UV.
> > > If we need to open up the connection, we can simply unwrap the 88,
> > > then slice the silicone with a knife or razor blade.
> > >
> > > This method has worked quite well for us. We do a lot of portable
> > operation
> > > in Glen's contesting trailer
> > >
> > > k9yc.com/7QP.pdf
> > >
> > > and both of us live in the Santa Cruz Mountains, with a lot of
> > > antennas rigged high in redwoods that experience storm damage,
> > > every winter. And
> > also
> > > receiving antennas -- I have two 550 ft long reversible Beverages
> > > and a
> > pair
> > > of phased VE3DO loops. We've figured out rigging pretty well
> > > -- after losing a couple of 120 ft high dipoles in 2006-7, the
> > > only
> ones
> > > I've lost since were three that were supported on one end by a 200
> > > ft Douglas Fir whose root ball was pulled out of the ground! The
> > > other end
> > of
> > > all three dipoles were intact. We rig with weights on pulleys, and
> > rigging
> > > is pretty robust.
> > >
> > > 73, Jim K9YC
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > > TowerTalk@contesting.com
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