Yes. Scotch 33. I typically find it at hardware stores or the big box home
improvement stores in the same place where they keep the Scotch 88.
The point is to reduce the heat that could transfer to underlying
connectors in the summer (I live in NH) and preserve the integrity of the
weather seal. YMMV but it works for me.
John
NN1SS
On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 12:13 PM Chuck Dietz <w5prchuck@gmail.com> wrote:
> White Scotch 33?
>
> Chuck W5PR
>
> On Mon, Apr 21, 2025 at 10:46 AM n4zkf n4zkf.com <n4zkf@n4zkf.com> wrote:
>
> > You got that right! If you ever want to get it off again when using
> Butyl.
> >
> >
> > David Calder
> > n4zkf@n4zkf.com
> > www.n4zkf.com<http://www.n4zkf.com>
> > Dxc.n4zkf.com port:7373<dxc.n4zkf.com:7373>
> > n4zkf/r 147.375 MHz Tone 103.5
> >
> >
> > From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> on behalf of Steve
> > Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
> > Date: Saturday, April 19, 2025 at 11:44 PM
> > To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections
> > In any case, one must use a "courtesy" wrap under the nuclear stuff to
> > avoid loud swearing in the future.
> >
> > Scotch 33 or 88 works OK for that, but the best courtesy wrap is a layer
> > of silicone tape.
> >
> > -Steve K8LX
> >
> > On 04/19/25 4:29 PM, Steve Jones wrote:
> > > Interesting...I use the exact opposite procedure. I first wrap the
> > > connector with Scotch 88, with a little fold at the end for easy
> > unwrapping.
> > > Then cover everything with the self-fusing Coax Seal. If I need to get
> > to
> > > the connector, I scrape the sticky stuff away from the little fold,
> then
> > > unwrap everything off to reveal a shiny clean connector.
> > > 73,
> > > Steve
> > > N6SJ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: TowerTalk<towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of Jim
> Brown
> > > Sent: Friday, April 18, 2025 10:56 PM
> > > To:towertalk@contesting.com
> > > Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Coax Connections
> > >
> > > On 4/18/2025 3:12 PM, Brian Beezley wrote:
> > >> Has anyone tried this method?:
> > >>
> > >> https://tinyurl.com/mr3n2htx
> > > Neighbor W6GJB and I, who have worked together on antennas for 10-15
> > years,
> > > have tried a lot of methods. I've used heat shrink selectively to solve
> > > specific problems, but not to cover connections completely.
> > >
> > > One of the issues with any connection is that we often need to open
> them
> > up
> > > to change something, or to troubleshoot an issue. The method we settled
> > on
> > > some years ago is to first wrap the connection with a self-fusing
> > silicone
> > > product like Rescue Tape, then cover it with an overlapped wrap of
> > Scotch 88
> > > to protect it both physically and from UV.
> > > If we need to open up the connection, we can simply unwrap the 88, then
> > > slice the silicone with a knife or razor blade.
> > >
> > > This method has worked quite well for us. We do a lot of portable
> > operation
> > > in Glen's contesting trailer
> > >
> > > k9yc.com/7QP.pdf
> > >
> > > and both of us live in the Santa Cruz Mountains, with a lot of antennas
> > > rigged high in redwoods that experience storm damage, every winter. And
> > also
> > > receiving antennas -- I have two 550 ft long reversible Beverages and a
> > pair
> > > of phased VE3DO loops. We've figured out rigging pretty well
> > > -- after losing a couple of 120 ft high dipoles in 2006-7, the only
> ones
> > > I've lost since were three that were supported on one end by a 200 ft
> > > Douglas Fir whose root ball was pulled out of the ground! The other end
> > of
> > > all three dipoles were intact. We rig with weights on pulleys, and
> > rigging
> > > is pretty robust.
> > >
> > > 73, Jim K9YC
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > > TowerTalk@contesting.com
> > > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> > >
> > >
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> >
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> >
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