Roger that, Roger. I was wondering when someone would mention the other
end. You can unscrew the threaded part all the way and put sealing
material where it will seal the gap as the threaded portion is secured
back together and onto the male connector.
Shrink with the heat released goo inside is a good solution but failing
that other sealants can be put in place before shrinking standard shrink
tubing. Some easily removed stufff like coax-seal put on before the goo
enabled heat shrink tubing makes it much easier to take it all apart if
that should ever be desired.
Patrick NJ5G
On 5/25/2015 12:10 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
PL259s leak at both ends. I prefer to use flooded heat shrink over
the whole thing. It adds lots of strength too. Wrapping them with a
layer of tape, sticky side out under tension keeps them pretty and
dry, but adds little or no strength.
73
Roger. (K8RI)
On 5/24/2015 10:45 PM, RMorris wrote:
Garden hose washers (rubber) work.
Get a pack or tear off sheet at the box stores. Cheap, use as many
as needed to take up the gap.
I use them on a one side nut of a double female feed-thru. Going
through plexiglass and don’t want to crack it, plus weather seal.
On May 24, 2015, at 9:51 PM, EZ Rhino <ezrhino@fastmovers.biz> wrote:
Guys-
Wondering if anyone has experimented with rolling a small rubber O
ring on the end of an SO239 connector before putting the PL259 on
it? It seems that if you got the right size O ring it could seat
under the PL259 and create a good seal there.
Sometimes there isn't a lot of length on the SO239, and the shell of
the PL259 practically bottoms out on the flange of the SO239, and
therefore wrapping black tape around the end of the PL259 can't
really get a good seal between the two because there just ins't
enough room. (I've been using liquid electrical tape for this and
it seems really good so far.)
Chris
KF7P
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