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Re: [TowerTalk] Amphenol PL259

To: <aa6eg@k6bj.org>, "Pete Michaelis - N8TR" <pete.n8tr@gmail.com>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Amphenol PL259
From: "Bob" <rgshauger@myyellowstone.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 23:56:10 -0700
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Barthelow" <aa6eg@hotmail.com>
To: "Pete Michaelis - N8TR" <pete.n8tr@gmail.com>; 
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Amphenol PL259


>
> Yet another lifetime experience with PL-259s...
> I am of the "use a  Black Diamond, heavy tip, 175 watt iron persuasion", 
> (second only to crimp-on connectors) and like Pete, I found the fully hot, 
> big stick of copper tip works well, even on the nickel plated connectors, 
> though I file them, to brass if I have the luxury.
>
> Two additional tricks I found; I made a 4 flat ~45 degree champfered 
> chisel tip on the iron, which on mine, is about the diameter of a 7.62 mm 
> bullet. If I clean and tin the tip, and hold it vertical (down) and apply 
> a generous amount of "tinning" I get a big, near spherical "boule" of 
> molten clean solder hanging from the chiseled tip.  Gently lower that 
> boule right onto the PL-259 hole, where the boule perimeter perfectly 
> meets the entire circumference simultaneously, and the boule perfectly 
> applies massive heat to the perimeter of the hole, and most of the 
> connnector so well, that it is probably only 2 seconds before at least 3 
> of the 4 holes and environs are plenty hot to instantly accept and melt 
> applied solder through them.
>
> As to tinning the braid, I have found that a perfect meticulous tinnng 
> with minimal solder does such a perfect job, that the tinned, solder 
> soaked braid sometimes has a clear air gap all the way around, inside and 
> not touching the connector body, so no, or little conduction heating 
> occurs, and there is a lot more metal mass in the braid (now) which has 
> soaked up the tinning solder.  So it does not accept heat as well, and 
> sinks a lot of heat before temp catches up to melt solder through the 
> holes.  So I usually do not tin the braid, but leave the woven braid 
> loose, or helped along with a spiral pre-twist in the direction that the 
> connector is screwed on--
> (carefully now, no free pieces to wander around ) which usually makes it 
> expand slightly  to meet and touch the inside of the holes.  Then, when 
> the hot tip-boule of clean, molten solder touches the hole, it also almost 
> instantly is sucked up into the braid, and laps over, perfectly, onto the 
> connector body at the hole.  The solder has to heat a lot less mass when 
> the braid is not pre-tinned.
>
> To keep tugging motions of the cable from breaking the many fine braid 
> wire to solder interfaces over time, I am sure, prior to soldering, to 
> twist hard by hand, the connector to the coax, so that the internal 
> connector threads, engage, kinda cut their own threads on the cable 
> jacket, limiting relative motion between the cable and the connector.
>
> Of course, if I have my correct crimping tools and connectors with me, 
> they win out EVERY single time.
>
> All the best,   Pat Barthelow   AA6EG    Skype:  sparky599aa6eg@k6bj.org
>
> Jamesburg Moonbounce Team
>
> http://www.jamesburgdish.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 15:13:48 -0400
>> To: towertalk@contesting.com
>> From: pete.n8tr@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Amphenol PL259
>>
>> At 01:33 PM 10/28/2008, Jim Brown wrote:
>>
>> >I've installed lots of both nickel and silver-plated Amphenols, and I've
>> >used the same scraping trick to solder to the nickels. The silvers are 
>> >WELL
> > >WORTH the small additional cost. The LAST thing I want to do is apply 
> > >any more heat than necessary and take the chance of melting a cable 
> > >dielectric.  If an iron has a tip with appreciable thermal mass,  the 
> > >connector heats up fast and the soldering of the holes can be done 
> > >quickly.  I use a wet sponge  to cool the connector after soldering (I 
> > >also tin the braid before inserting the cable into the connector).  I 
> > >have installed many PL259's on to cables with both foam and solid 
> > >polyethylene dielectric without any problems.
>>
>> 73 Pete - N8TR
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