Ok, I've already admitted in a previous message that I used to
use gun cleaner (trichlor) spray, followed by a SMALL amount of
WD-40....with great success for YEARS worth of BA repairs/restos....
I also stated that I now use De-oxit, after the cleaning with
solvent on really dirty switches/pots.....mainly because of
"peer" pressure....
I've experienced the BS audio "tweek" shit in my past diversions
into "high-end" audio.....(hangs his head in shame, exits stage)
Now, let's drag out the 'scientists'... and get some 'hard'
answers....since the 'carburetor cleaner followed by WD-40'
>WORKS!< (sorry Jerry) and since I've been 'saved' and now use
'proper' (high dollar) product, answer me this.....no emotions
please....WHAT harm does a small amount of WD-40 do in rotary
switches and pots?....what about wiping down the chassis with
it for 'preservation'? I.E., the doctors told us to eat eggs
and sausage and lay in the sun when I was a kid....who in the
hell are we supposed to believe now?
All in good humor, of course (hehe)
Walt
On
Sat, 27
Feb 1999, Rick Blank wrote:
>
> The former Cramolin red is now the Caig DeoxIt D-5, the Cramolin
> blue is now Caig CaiLube, I would MUCH rather use either of these
> chemicals than WD-40...in fact, the only thing I ever use WD40 for
> is spraying down my engine compartment after a thourough washing
> of the engine....I found out years ago that doing this to a new engine
> keeps it looking new much, much longer and adds to the resale
> value, no oxidized or corroded fasteners, all the hardware looks like
> new, etc....
>
> As far as using WD40 on electronics, why? There are so many
> other substances that do a proper job of it that using WD40 is like
> using a non-detergent, recycled motor oil compared to a synthetic
> motor oil...150,000 mles with no appreciable wear in an engine is a
> pretty good testament, in my view, to the superiority of synthetics vs.
> the crap we used to have years ago, of course, or fuels are cleaner
> now, not a lot of sulfur buildups as in the past that would cause
> H2SO4....and this comes from someone who has worked on
> everything from an 1899 Locomobile steam car to Ferrari's...the
> only other oil I know of that has such good lubricating capabilities is
> Castor based oils, and they are a freaking mess to deal with, I used
> them in racing motorcycles years ago, and periodic engine rebuilds
> are necessary to get the naturally occuring varnish off the interior
> surfaces of engines....but, it does preserve, I worked on an old
> LeRhone (I think that's how it's spelled, it's been >20 years ago)
> WW1 aircraft engine that was perfectly preserved from a thick coat
> of Castor varnish...
>
> Now, one of the new audiophile "tweaks" is a squaline based oil from
> deep sea harvested sharks, supposed to do everything that the Caig
> products do to enhande electrical conductivity between clean metal
> connections...oh well, so it goes!
>
>
> Rick Blank, KI5SL
> AMSAT NA #26195
> 2331 Vance Jackson Road
> San Antonio, Texas 78213
> rblank@texas.net
>
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