In other words, the inner tube is clamped by the screw head through to
the far wall of the outer tube by the nylock nut which is on the
exterior of the outer tube.
The screw head is not clamping the outer tube at all but rests on the
inner tube. Correct?
Why would this be a better method than simply drilling through both
tubes and running a machine screw all the way through and using a nylock
nut which is a more common way to do it?
Les W2LK
On 8/13/2015 10:35 AM, Stan Stockton wrote:
It's all the way through. Not countersunk but counter bored. Head of socket
head screw is cleared to bottom out on OD of inner tube. OD of inner tube is
pinched very securely to ID of outer tubing.
Stan
Sent from Stan's IPhone
On Aug 13, 2015, at 9:20 AM, Jim Thomson <jim.thom@telus.net> wrote:
## I understand counter bore.... but how can you do a counter bore, when the
tubing thickness is paper thin to begin with... like .058 wall etc?
Jim VE7RF
-----Original Message----- From: Stan Stockton
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 6:53 AM
To: Jim Thomson
Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread
After about 40 years of making my own antennas I learned something a few years
ago when faced with assembling 65 tribanders (520 elements) we made for
WRTC2014.
I was introduced to the element joint attachment method I am told is used by
Optibeam. I was skeptical when I heard the verbal description, having settled
on pop rivets after every other conceivable method about 20 years ago.
I made one element with pop rivets and another with a single stainless steel
socket head cap screw with a counterbore (head clearance on socket head screw)
for one wall of the larger diameter tubing for each joint, then grabbed each
one in the center and violently shook them back and forth. The one with SHCS
joints felt like one solid piece of tubing as compared to the pop riveted one.
It is so easy and so solid, I will never mess with pop rivets again.
A V block fixture with stops, drill press and some of these bits along with
straight bits for the smaller diameter tube drilling are all that is needed.
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14686/
make the job easy in comparison to many methods. The counterbore is important.
Use stainless nylock nuts.
YMMV but I'm sold on it.
73...Stan, K5GO
Sent from Stan's IPhone
On Aug 13, 2015, at 7:42 AM, Jim Thomson <jim.thom@telus.net> wrote:
The rest of the yagi should be using 3 x rivets
at each joint.
Jim VE7RF
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