## I understand counter bore.... but how can you do a counter bore, when
the tubing thickness is paper thin to begin with... like .058 wall etc?
Jim VE7RF
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Stockton
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 6:53 AM
To: Jim Thomson
Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread
After about 40 years of making my own antennas I learned something a few
years ago when faced with assembling 65 tribanders (520 elements) we made
for WRTC2014.
I was introduced to the element joint attachment method I am told is used by
Optibeam. I was skeptical when I heard the verbal description, having
settled on pop rivets after every other conceivable method about 20 years
ago.
I made one element with pop rivets and another with a single stainless steel
socket head cap screw with a counterbore (head clearance on socket head
screw) for one wall of the larger diameter tubing for each joint, then
grabbed each one in the center and violently shook them back and forth. The
one with SHCS joints felt like one solid piece of tubing as compared to the
pop riveted one.
It is so easy and so solid, I will never mess with pop rivets again.
A V block fixture with stops, drill press and some of these bits along with
straight bits for the smaller diameter tube drilling are all that is needed.
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14686/
make the job easy in comparison to many methods. The counterbore is
important. Use stainless nylock nuts.
YMMV but I'm sold on it.
73...Stan, K5GO
Sent from Stan's IPhone
On Aug 13, 2015, at 7:42 AM, Jim Thomson <jim.thom@telus.net> wrote:
The rest of the yagi should be using 3 x rivets
at each joint.
Jim VE7RF
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