Getting back to the original question, I have used Dow Corning 4 Electrical
Insulating Compound or a version thereof for years on all outdoor
connections and not infrequently indoor connections as well. On UHF, N, and
my hardline connectors, I put a small dab on the outer threads and if
possible a tiny touch on the center pin. I also use the grease on the
boots that go over connectors, such as rotor cables or other control lines.
I use the grease on trailer hitch electrical connectors (boot and pins) ,
Cinch-Jones connector pins, spark plug wires/boots and other
automotive connectors. I am not talking about a lot of grease-- like the
way I prefer the cream cheese on my bagels--just a very slight wipe. Just
about any grease can attract dust, so the goal is to use a sensible amount
for the connector at hand.
I have never had an issue and I believe the grease helps to displace
moisture, prevent corrosion, and make it easier to take connectors apart.
On boots, it helps to seal and makes the boots easier to slide on/off. The
fact that it is called dielectric grease or insulating compound is
misleading.
I use Penetrox or Noalox when assembling sliding aluminum yagi elements.
I'll clean the element insertion end with Scotch-Brite, wipe with a rag,
smear the Penetrox or Noalox on the aluminum tube to be inserted and then
slide the tubing together. I am considerably more generous with these
greases than the dielectric grease on connectors. I would not use Penetrox
or Noalox on RF connectors as I described above; however, I have put some
on the L-shaped aluminum angles that several of the popular commercial yagi
manufacturers supply to connect the balun to the elements. In those cases
it is an aluminum to aluminum connection which potentially can oxidize.
I have not used STUF Dielectric Waterproofing Grease or ever flooded a
connector with grease--RF or otherwise.
John KK9A already referenced W8JI's comments on dielectric and conductive
greases.
73 Mark WH7W/WH7T
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