On 11/18/2014 10:10 PM, Don wrote:
My first soldering iron, used kerosene, It made those 100 Watt Irons
look delicate and suited my skill level, or lack there of. It mounted in
the Hook and Grove on top of a blow torch. Biggest problem with those
was getting them started and they weren't for tower work. Too big,
heavy, and they had to be kept upright.
Starting was fun. You "Pumped up" the tank, filled the "boat" under the
"burner" (in still air), lit the kerosene. when the boat was nearly
empty you "cracked" the throttle to the burner. If lucky, you were
rewarded with a blue flame and a sound like an ox/acetylene torch. You
slowly advanced the throttle in steps. Too much, too quick and it'd
flood out and you had to start over. When it was really roaring, (they
had a distinctive sound) you placed the "soldering iron" in the hook and
notch, gave it a few minutes and it'd go through wheel weights like a
225 Watt gun through that tiny wire solder. This was before PC boards.
Some had a thicker section behind the "tip" for a heat reservoir so you
could easily solder 1" copper pipe. Delicate? it was not! <:-))
Didn't work well in wind either. Sure worked well on RG-8 braid though.
You could tin the entire end in a couple seconds with practice.
Did I mention this was in the 50s and early 60s. It was good for making
solder connection on wire antennas. I don't know of anyone that used
the much more convenient copper or brass split-bolt connectors.
There have been a number of pointers to locating the old, big, electric
iron the plumbers used oh so many years past.
73
Roger (K8RI)
Which brings a question to mind. Why is there not available for sale a
decent battery powered soldering iron. Sure would be nice when in the
air not to be tied to an AC power cord. I did a search (probably not
very deep) and found some battery powered irons but nothing that would
deal with a few UHF connectors out and away from the 'house'. A friend
from Australia who was in the 2-way radio business had a couple he
brought when he immigrated from Oz but I've been unable to find that
they are made anymore.
Anyone have information on such a tool for use while up in the air??
Don W7WLL
-----Original Message----- From: Roger (K8RI) on TT
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 2:08 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Some advice about crimp ;type coax connectors
On 11/18/2014 2:04 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
As I stated early on, my preference is 7-16 except for price.
The Times Wire N-Type are non captive. At the time, I couldn't find any.
I use crimp type for the same reason. I have over 100 connectors in my
system and making crimp connections while a 10' "up there" sure beats
soldering them, particularly this time of year.
OTOH that's no longer a problem as I can no longer climb and have to pay
to have it done. Again the crimp save time and now, money. <:-))
I can't see N-type connectors as superior to UHF except for UHF and SHF
and again the 7-16 are superior.
Agree with you completely Jim.
73
Roger (K8
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 00:36:55 -0500
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Some advice about crimp ;type coax connectors
I've used a number of connectors, most of which are the Times Wire crimp
connectors. I like them as they come with a length of heat shrink.
They are a very well made connector, but with the 100' vertical run
still need the loops at top and bottom.
As to a loop, Why never? I must disagree. I see no reason not to use
them and a number for using them.
As long as the loop is not too tight, center migration is not a problem,
nor is lightening with the shield bonded to the tower, top and bottom.
The same for tape. I do not like the large ty-wraps as they put too much
pressure on a small spot. and two wraps ever two feet gives a secure
hold. I run the coax along a tower leg, inside the tower, bonded to the
top and bottom of the tower. Put on in reasonable weather, I've never
had any come off or loose. Tape in cold weather is not a good
idea.After this many years, I've been given no reason to change.
73
Roger (K8RI)
## are the Times Wire type-N crimp connectors.... captivated or non
captivated ?
At the telco I worked at, the cell dept would use crimp style type N
connectors.
Crimp style were used, simply cuz they had a heck of a lot of
connectors to install.
In some applications, > 100 connectors had to be installed.
## The story I got years ago was that both captivated and non
captivated type N
connectors were available,and that the captivated type N was the
preferred one to
use.
## Just b4 I retired in nov 2009, they had just converted to 7-16
Din. Most of the other
cell cos had already been using 7-16 Dins since day 1. If you have
ever seen a type N
on a huge piece of heliax, you will soon see why. Looking at a
coffee mug size connector
with a puny type N pin is laughable. A type N pin is the same as the
pin on a BNC.
## I was going to embark on my own type N conversion program and
gave up on it.
UHF connectors have bigger pins than type N. There is no RF on the
pin anyway..its
all flowing along the barrel of the mating female that the pin engages.
## Andrew stopped making UHF connectors for .875 inch heliax a long
time ago.
LC connectors are out of vogue these days. The only game in town is
the type N and the
7-16Din. Andrew, Times, etc, all offer both type N and 7-16 Din for
their cables.
If you have ever seen a 7-16 Din, you wont be using a type N anytime
soon. The
pin in a 7-16 Din is huge, like a .22 shell. The OD of the female
that the pin engages
is 7mm OD. The ID of the mating sleeve is 16mm.
## You can also get crimp style 7-16 dins for ANY cable..including
RG-393, 58-U, heliax,
LMR-400/600/1200, etc.
## I still use plane UHF connectors for stuff like 213 U... albeit
they are silver plated
and teflon dielectric. The silver plated type are real EASY to
solder.... vs the nickel
plated types.
## A loop at the top and bottom of the tower is not going to hurt
anything...provided its
a big enough turn radius.
Jim VE7RF
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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