Topband
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Topband: Soldering radials?

To: Matt Murphy <matt@nq6n.com>
Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering radials?
From: "Michael Carper, Ph.D. via Topband" <topband@contesting.com>
Reply-to: "Michael Carper, Ph.D." <mike@wa9pie.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 15:01:45 -0500
List-post: <topband@contesting.com">mailto:topband@contesting.com>
I must say that I soldered with a torch for the first time last weekend...
and WOW what fun!  (I was making bonding straps for my mobile from
scratch.  A standard soldering iron can't heat it up enough.)

Mike, WA9PIE
WA9PIE-2 Global DX Spotting Network
hrd.wa9pie.net:8000

On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:56 PM, Matt Murphy <matt@nq6n.com> wrote:

> Is there any danger of damaging stranded copper wire by overheating it with
> a torch when soldering or brazing?
>
> 73,
> Matt NQ6N
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Drew Vonada-Smith <
> drew@whisperingwoods.org
> > wrote:
>
> > Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is
> > significant.  I can't see any justification for not joining them the best
> > way available.  IMHO, silver brazing.
> >
> >
> > I use and recommend Sta-Silv 15 (15% Ag, 80%Cu, 5% P brazing stick) and a
> > simple MAPP gas torch.  Propane is not quite hot enough to work well.
> > Liquidus is 1475F.  Flux didn't seem necessary, but you could use white
> > brazing flux.  Sure, I spent $25 in solder over about 5 verticals, but of
> > what significance is that compared to the rest of the effort, to insure a
> > lasting joint?
> >
> >
> > Sta-Silv 5 is probably fine also, with a 1500F liquidus,  But I prefer
> the
> > characteristics of the 15%.  Very easy to work with.
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Drew K3PA
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 08:52:40 -0700
> > From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <richard@karlquist.com>
> > To: "Topband@contesting.com" <Topband@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Topband: Soldering radials?
> > Message-ID: <c04783d1-8f96-c17c-5921-fb6648e8587e@karlquist.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> >
> > I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group
> > on soldering radials.  What I currently thinking
> > is as follows:
> >
> > SOLDER SELECTION:
> >
> > 1.  Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather.
> >
> > 2.  "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin,
> > no lead) is known to work well, but is expensive,
> > and has a considerably higher melting point
> > than 63/37.
> >
> > 3.  Lead free plumber's solder obviously works
> > in water pipes, but does it hold up outdoors
> > in the rain?  What is the melting point?
> >
> > FLUX SELECTION:
> >
> > 1.  Pure rosin.  Hardest to work with, but minimum
> > corrosion issues.
> >
> > 2.  Activated rosin.  Easier to work with.  What
> > corrosion issues are there?
> >
> > 3.  Acid core plumber's flux.  Very easy to work
> > with, very corrosive.  Does this hold up in the
> > rain, etc?
> >
> > (I remember the dire warnings that Heathkit manuals
> > had about not using acid core solder, but I
> > guess that doesn't apply to radials.)
> >
> > CRIMPING?
> >
> > Has anyone tried crimping as an alternative to solder?
> >
> > Rick
> > N6RK
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Topband mailing list
> > Topband@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/topband
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Topband Digest, Vol 166, Issue 8
> > ***************************************
> > _________________
> > Topband Reflector Archives - http://www.contesting.com/_topband
> >
> _________________
> Topband Reflector Archives - http://www.contesting.com/_topband
>
_________________
Topband Reflector Archives - http://www.contesting.com/_topband

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>