I have never heard of a wireman splice before this thread but it looks like
the same splice we have used for years to connect livestock fence together
when we are stringing new fence. Amazing what works for one works for the
other.
Darl NA8W
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From: "Tom W8JI" <w8ji@w8ji.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 12:38 PM
To: "Bruce" <k1fz@myfairpoint.net>; <topband@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: Topband: Beverage strain
>> It's almost enough to drive one back to electric fence wire. It's
>> inexpensive and reconnects easily using the wireman splice.
>> 73
>> Bruce-K1FZ
>
> I've been running tests on splices and trying to find the most simple
> splice
> that is reliable.
>
> http://www.w8ji.com/splicing_antenna_wire.htm
>
> The problem with any traditional splice is exposure of steel cores, either
> through heat removing very thin copper or other coatings, scratches or
> scrapes, or expose of steel at wire ends. Heating the wire with a torch is
> just no good, but I can heat a crimped copper sleeve and sweat solder the
> wires.
>
> The two best methods I have found are either a modified wireman (western
> union) splice, or a copper tubing sleeve with solder. Either one appears
> to
> work, and be stronger than the wire.
>
> Right now I'm looking for commercial heavy wall crimp connection butt
> splices that allow two #16 wires to fit side-by-side. The problem is
> finding
> one long enough to get a good friction connection. I'd really like to just
> crimp, and not solder at all.
>
> Perhaps someone knows of reliable wire crimps that are pennies, not
> dollars... :-)
>
> 73 Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
>
_______________________________________________
UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
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