What about a wire wheel in a drill or Dremel Tool?
73
Jim W7RY
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Wilson
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2017 11:12 AM
To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Stripping Litz
Hello Manfred,
Thanks for the info on tinning Litz, and thanks to all who also
contributed. Even using the hot air tip on a butane soldering iron for
a minute fails to do more than darken the insulation, as does a bare
flame. It's a nightmare to strip, I did have some old Nitromors paint
stripper before they went "Green" and that would work if an end was
left in it for a few days with teasing of the strands every now and
again. But a few days in unobtainable stripper is not good, and the
bit I had is all gone ;) I will try and get some of the chemical
mentioned earlier unless anyone has any other suggestions? It's nice
wire of a reasonable core size for coil winding, but if I can't strip
it its just X kilos of copper.... :(
On Wednesday, May 17, 2017, you wrote:
Litz wire most commonly has polyurethane insulation. This is solderable
- you don't need to strip it!
Just set the soldering iron to a slightly hotter temperature than
normal, then take the iron and common rosin-cored solder wire, and
slowly start tinning the Litz wire, starting from the cut end.
By starting from the end, rather than some distance away from it, you
immediately tin the end surfaces of each tiny wire, thus coupling a lot
of heat into the copper. That way the film insulation gets heated from
the inside and the outside, making it melt down rather quickly.
Instead if you try tinning the Litz wire at a point where it hasn't been
cut, you are only applying heat to the outside of the exposed isulation
film sections, while inside them the copper quickly carries the heat
away. That makes it far harder to solder through the insulation.
Manfred
--
Best regards,
Chris mailto:chris@chriswilson.tv
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