Hello Manfred,
Thanks for the info on tinning Litz, and thanks to all who also
contributed. Even using the hot air tip on a butane soldering iron for
a minute fails to do more than darken the insulation, as does a bare
flame. It's a nightmare to strip, I did have some old Nitromors paint
stripper before they went "Green" and that would work if an end was
left in it for a few days with teasing of the strands every now and
again. But a few days in unobtainable stripper is not good, and the
bit I had is all gone ;) I will try and get some of the chemical
mentioned earlier unless anyone has any other suggestions? It's nice
wire of a reasonable core size for coil winding, but if I can't strip
it its just X kilos of copper.... :(
On Wednesday, May 17, 2017, you wrote:
> Litz wire most commonly has polyurethane insulation. This is solderable
> - you don't need to strip it!
> Just set the soldering iron to a slightly hotter temperature than
> normal, then take the iron and common rosin-cored solder wire, and
> slowly start tinning the Litz wire, starting from the cut end.
> By starting from the end, rather than some distance away from it, you
> immediately tin the end surfaces of each tiny wire, thus coupling a lot
> of heat into the copper. That way the film insulation gets heated from
> the inside and the outside, making it melt down rather quickly.
> Instead if you try tinning the Litz wire at a point where it hasn't been
> cut, you are only applying heat to the outside of the exposed isulation
> film sections, while inside them the copper quickly carries the heat
> away. That makes it far harder to solder through the insulation.
> Manfred
--
Best regards,
Chris mailto:chris@chriswilson.tv
_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
|