$440 for a G4RV is a royal rip off. There's maybe $25 in materials.
73, Jerry, K0CQ
On 1/12/2011 7:37 PM, Jim Huicks wrote:
> A MFJ G5RV with a tuner works well, The cost about 440.00 AND GOOD FOR 10 TO
> 80. I rum a LDG auto tuner with good results. 73 Jim N7INO
>
> --- On Wed, 1/12/11, Stuart Rohre<rohre@arlut.utexas.edu> wrote:
>
>
> From: Stuart Rohre<rohre@arlut.utexas.edu>
> Subject: Re: [TenTec] What about antenna wire? What to buy?
> To: tentec@contesting.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2011, 11:45 PM
>
>
> Tom,
>
> Many wires will work at 100 watts. For stealth and durability, stranded
> no. 22 light blue insulated hook up wire will work if your feedline is
> supported to not put weight upon the flat top wires, (elements) of your
> dipole. You could also use up to no. 14 ga conduit wire, insulated in a
> light blue to blend in against the sky, if it is in the back yard, and
> less visible, therefore from the street.
>
> Even bare stranded no. 14 wire, widely available, and at Radio Shack, as
> well as at ham suppliers like The Wireman, and Coaxman, will make a low
> profile dipole. The bare wire eventually oxidizes black, but that does
> not affect the conduction which is under the coating. If you have
> soldered your feeder connections, that is, when the wire was new and
> shiny. 14 Ga. can support twin lead or ladder line feeder strain
> relieved to a center insulator.
>
> For end and center insulators, I have used for Field Days for year,
> white vitamin pill bottles. You can punch holes to hold a synthetic
> line halter for the end tie offs, and two holes to pass the end of the
> dipole element through. Or course, more durable plastic insulators
> could be made from PVC 1/2 inch plumbing fittings, or commercial ceramic
> insulators can be purchased from the Wireman or Coaxman or ham
> distributor stores. Make sure to buy glossy, glazed ceramics if going
> that route. Another way to secure end halters to the pill bottle is to
> simply drill the cap, and knot a line inside the cap, pass the line thru
> the hole and screw the cap on the bottle. Then you only need two holes
> in the bottom of the bottle sides for the loop of the wire element.
> Don't worry about the inductance of the loop of wire, it will only add a
> capacitance hat effect, as it connects, (solders) back onto the standing
> part of the end of the wire element.
>
> For your line to hold up the ends, pick a UV resistant material. Nylon
> will stretch, and work for a couple of years, but you might as well
> spend a little money on the better line materials that will resist UV.
> The white plastic pill bottles hold up pretty well, but are easily
> replaced if they tear in a wind, or decay due to weathering. Ceramic
> insulators, if not dropped on hard surfaces, should last longer than
> your antenna wire, and feedline. I use some from 54 years ago, at the
> start of my ham career.
>
> Home center stores usually have anything you need to make a very
> workable and economical antenna.
>
> GL and 73,
> Stuart Rohre
> K5KVH
>
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