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Re: [VHFcontesting] Quagi

To: Cal Zethmayr <w4gmh@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [VHFcontesting] Quagi
From: "Darryl J. Holman" <djholman@u.washington.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 10:17:13 -0700
List-post: <vhfcontesting@contesting.com">mailto:vhfcontesting@contesting.com>
Hi Cal,

I use a 5 element 2m quagi for one of my rovers. It works quite well for its intended purpose. Mine is built to be quick to assemble and disassemble, and the boom is hinged in the middle to stow in a small airplane.

I've used a 6 element WA5VJB “cheap yagi” on 2m during the same contests out of a car, where the antenna can be permanently mounted. (You can see photos of both of them in action in different configurations in the same contest here: http://tinyurl.com/ww7dJunVHF12R ). The 5 ele quagi and 6 ele "cheap yagi" have similar boom lengths--the Quagi is 7' and the yagi is 6'.

I've set-up both the 5 ele Quagi and 6 ele cheap yagi in my back yard on separate 20' masts and done A/B comparisons during a weekly 2m SSB net. I was hoping to learn that one substantially outperformed the other. It wasn't the case...they performed identically.

Both antennas use wood booms, and I would rate them as equally easy to build. The LFA array, mentioned by G0BSU, uses a metal boom with the elements insulated from the booms by plastic insulators, so construction is a bit more complicated.

Quagi construction hints: Use bare bronze brazing rod for the loops. Avoid using copper wire. It isn't stiff enough and the resulting loops look like hell and deform easily. I use 3/32 rod for a lightweight quagi that isn't subjected to 70 MPH winds. 1/8" rod would work for beefier loops that must endure highway speeds. (If you insist on using copper wire, work-harden it by chucking it in a drill, anchor the other end in a vice and aggressively twist the wire.) The welding rods are not long enough to form the entire loop. One way to complete the loops is use high quality electrical butt crimp connectors to form the corners. Remove the plastic, bend to 90 degrees, insert the welding rods, use a punch to mechanically crimp and then solder the connector to the rods. I prefer 3/16th aluminum rod for the directors.

LFA arrays: For the recent UHF contest I built a shortened (8') 432 MHz LFA array for my street rover. I used spruce blocks instead of plastic insulators. A single machine screw with a washer and a Nylock nut (all stainless steel) holds the insulator to the boom. The nut is tightened enough to hold the elements in place at highway speeds, but the reflectors and directors will rotate (instead of bending) when hit by tree branches and whatnot. That is an extremely useful feature for a street rover. I've not done A/B comparisons to the cheap yagi it replaced. I intend to eventually build 222 MHz and 2 meter LFA arrays for the street rover, perhaps one by September and the other by January.

In conclusion: All three designs have been successfully used for roving. The LFA yagi is the newest and sexiest design but, without additional design work, requires a metal boom, is heavier, and a bit more complicated to build. But the antenna is expected to perform better for some useful characteristics. The 5 ele quagi and 6 ele cheap yagi have similar performance, and are both extremely simple to build. If vertical mast space is a limitation, the cheap yagi is best. The quagi's vertical loops make it more susceptible to getting snagged on trees.


Best,
  Darryl
  ww7d




On 08/19/2013 06:23 AM, Cal Zethmayr wrote:
Has anyone on this forum built or used a Quagi on 2 meters?  Anyone currently 
using a Quagi?
Any comments welcome.

Cal Z
W4GMH
Crestview,Florida
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