The new "Pro" Series all use Hall Effect instead of a Pot... The older ones
can be retrofitted.
Ron, WV4P
On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 12:39 AM David Gilbert <ab7echo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> All true. The only Prosistel rotator I know of that uses a Hall Effect
> digital sensor is the big one ... the PST-110D-Pro. As far as I know
> all others use a potentiometer, which is DC at low current.
>
> Dave AB7E
>
>
>
> On 3/23/2025 10:21 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> > On 3/23/2025 5:30 PM, Jorge Diez (CX6VM-CW5W) wrote:
> >> Manual says to use no less than 0.75 mm2 wires. Don’t talk about the
> >> length
> >
> > In the Yaesu rotators I use, big copper is needed only to run the
> > motor; position is sensed by the position of a potentiometer (variable
> > resistor) physically linked to the rotating side, so small copper
> > works just fine.
> >
> > I'm looking at the user manual for the PST-61 and two other models,
> > and it does the same thing. Wires 1 and 2 drive the 12VDC motor, wires
> > 3, 4, and 5 are connected to the potentiometer. They specify 1 sq mm
> > for the motor, 0.5 sq mm for the other three. Those numbers seem to be
> > based on current-carrying capacity, not allowable IR drop.
> >
> > Obviously incomplete information if you're buying cable for a long run.
> >
> > A question for you, Jorge. How long is your rotator cable? If it's
> > short, you only need to double up the wires on the motor, so that's
> > one pair for each wire. You've got two pairs (4 wires) left for the
> > pot, and only need three.
> >
> > A trick I've used when trying to fit stranded wire into a contact that
> > is too small for it is to simply remove enough strands right at the
> > connector to make it fit. For you doubling up conductors, strip them a
> > bit long, cut one shorter than the other, solder it to the longer one,
> > and solder that longer one to the connector, using short pieces of
> > heat shrink to insulate the bare wires as needed.
> >
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> >
> >
> >
> >
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