George,
Interesting comment on not being able to turn both at the same time. Is
there a way to keep the antennas in line automatically (slaved) or do
you have to turn one, wait, then turn the other?
Rich - N5ZC
On 11/11/2022 2:23 PM, George Skoubis wrote:
Sorry,
I meant to send this to the group.
——-
Dave,
I had a problem with the Tic-Ring sensor pot at the same time I had a problem
with my M2 2800 reed switch.
I purchased the 4O3A Rotor Genius with 2 of their magnetic sensors.
The one controller can operate 2 rotors (but cannot move both at once).
I sold my RT-21 and M2 controllers to partially pay for it.
I have only the 4O3A Rotor Genius for a year but it has worked well.
It would be possible to use just the magnetic sensor but you would need to
home-brew a controller.
It could be as simple as setting up relays that could control power polarity /
turn on the power supply with a Node-Red flow to read the azimuth and turn the
rotors.
I went with the store-bought solution from 4O3A.
73,
George / W7GES
On Nov 11, 2022, at 11:12 AM, Leeson <leeson@earthlink.net> wrote:
I've been using a TIC ring rotator here on a big 7el 10m Yagi for the past 20
years with good success, but it has a couple of well-known unresolved problems: In the
high winds we have on our hilltop (147 mi/h 3s gust measured), it can jump a tooth on
the motor or pot gear, which eventually makes the direction indicator pot totally out
of sync, or even damages it. Since the ring rotor doesn't have physical limit
switches, that has permitted over-rotation that parts the coax.
Re direction indication, has anyone had any success with alternatives such as
magnetic or microswitch gear tooth counters? Or a simple compass module with
output that a Green Heron RT-21 can read (0-5 volts)? See G6EJD, KJ4JJH, K3NG.
I'd like to have direction indication that mounts directly at the ring or
antenna boom itself, rather than through a coupled gear. and it should work at
zero speed.
Second, has anyone had success with adding waterproof (IP67) limit switches?
Honeywell, Omron, IP67 microswitches or cheaper imports? If a magnetic gear tooth
sensor is used, what kind of spacing precision is required? With 360 teeth, the
1° precision should be plenty for HF.
I am aware of modifications and updates (e.g., N1CX) that may help prevent gear
tooth skipping, but I want something bullet-proof that really gives me full
confidence. Even a partial failure in a contest can compromise an otherwise
winning effort; in our big HC8 station, we gave up on rotators and went with
multiple antennas per band. But for my less complex setup here at home, I
intend to try to resolve both of these problems when the weather permits, and
am interested in hearing the experiences of list folks.
BTW, I resolved the climb-over issue with a small 3-rung steel ladder mounted
below it on the tower face. And if the limit switches work out, I'll add them
to my prop pitches, as well.
Thanks, Dave W6NL/HC8L
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