A*Palnut*is a locking device for nuts which is made of stamped sheet
metal, and is a registered trademark. The palnut is screwed on the bolt
on top of an ordinary nut, and has a series of protruding barbs that
locks the nut in place when the nut is tightened. The Palnut itself is
reusable. A Palnut should not be used as a substitute for apositive
locking device
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positive_locking_device>such as
acastellated nut <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castellated_nut>or nuts
with safety wire.
Mike/K6BR
On 9/16/2018 11:50 AM, Charles Gallo wrote:
It is one of three things
1) take a centerpunch and put a dimple in one of the flats, HARD. Goal is to
distort the nut so it won't unscrew
2) use the centerpunch to put a dimple in the surface the nut mounts against,
again, goal again, not unscrewing
3)Using centerpunch, whack where the threads of the bolt and nut meet, to
really distort both. This is most secure, but don't plan on reusing either
--
73 de KG2V
Charlie
On Sep 16, 2018, at 2:12 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <richard@karlquist.com>
wrote:
The instruction sheet that came with my Rohn guy
equalizer plates states:
"Stake all nuts after assembly"
The kit of parts includes bolts, regular hex
nuts, and "PAL nuts". Assembly order is that
the regular nut goes on first, then the PAL nut
with the edge lip out. IE, the flat side of
it faces the regular nut.
Questions:
Do I torque the regular nut nice and tight with
a wrench, then install the PAL? Do I tighten
the PAL nut finger tight, or gently tighten it
just a little with a wrench. I have no experience
with these PAL nuts, but they don't look like
they would withstand much torque.
Finally:
What does "stake all nuts" refer to????
I am imagining whacking them with a hammer or
something ... but that can't be right?
Note: the Rohn drawing is dated "1964" :-)
Been licensed since 1965 and have never seen PAL nuts
before.
Rick N6RK
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