It probably goes without saying but be sure you put a a good amount of glue
inside the bell all the way in and on the straight end.
It will act as a lubricant but I have found you will have only a few
seconds to give it a good twist and push at the same time.
Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Jeff
On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 5:44 PM Zivney, Terry <00tlzivney@bsu.edu> wrote:
> I have tried filing a chamfer on the male end of several pieces - no luck.
>
>
>
> I have use a deburring tool on the female bell ends - no luck.
>
>
>
> As an experiment, I took a piece of smaller conduit (1 1/4 inch)
>
> and cut off the bell end and tried It on the male end of the same
>
> piece - even worse. It would not even start into the bell. At least
>
> the 2 inch ones will start in a small fraction of an inch before seizing.
>
>
>
> The conduit is several hundred feet from an electricity, so a heat gun
>
> is not in the cards as Bill suggested.
>
>
>
> Terry
>
> ________________________________________
>
> From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
>
> Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 6:25 PM
>
> To: Zivney, Terry
>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Conduit in trench
>
>
>
> In my experience, it is important for the two sections to be straight
>
> for larger diameter - co-linear. Also very clean. There might be a
>
> burr on the male end, a knife as a scraper can make a bevel. I add a
>
> section at a time, shovel handles laid across the trench as supports so
>
> I'm not working in the dirt. The mate is about 1/2 the diameter so if
>
> you get 2" in 1" that is ok. Be sure to hold the joint tight for a
>
> minute so the female taper doesn't push out the male.
>
>
>
> Your concern about couplings in well placed. In a community water
>
> system with 1000' of 2" pressurized distribution, couplings and elbows
>
> were the failure points, elbows especially since they can get a lot of
>
> stress. We always replaced sch40 fittings that failed with sch80. (the
>
> od of all wall thickness pipe is the same in a given size). Maybe
>
> twice the cost but reliably fixed. For conduit use there isn't the
>
> stress as in a water system and I think sch40 will work fine.
>
>
>
> I've put in lots of conduit (almost all from HD) and not had a mating
>
> problem other than dropped or stepped on sections.
>
>
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
>
>
> On 11/3/2017 15:02 PM, Zivney, Terry wrote:
>
> > I am trying to join sections of 2 inch (nominal) PVC conduit for burial
> in a trench.
>
> > This is schedule 40 electrical conduit, not water or drain pipe.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I cannot get the sections to mate. The belled portion of the conduit
>
> > is too snug on the main body. Even with the proper primer and
>
> > cement, it is so snug that I cannot manhandle two pieces together,
>
> > much less dozens!
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I found that the sweeps I bought would go on with some difficulty.
>
> > The short couplers, about 3 inches long will fit, but give very little
>
> > overlap, only about an inch if fully seated.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I notice that the electrical drops down the power poles around
>
> > here have the same PVC conduit, but instead of using the
>
> > built-in bell ends, the crews apparently just use the short couplers
>
> > on the straight end ( I guess they cut off the bells?).
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I am worried that the short couplers may not provide adequate
>
> > strength when the conduit is stressed to drop in into the trench.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Any experience?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Terry N4TZ
>
> > _______________________________________________
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > _______________________________________________
>
> > TowerTalk mailing list
>
> > TowerTalk@contesting.com
>
> >
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>
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>
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