OK.... don't even THINK about using heat.
Don't use a sledge.... too risky.
Suck it up and do it right. Weld/rig up an exterior frame that can
mount rigidly to the 4-6" of exposed concrete foundation. Or externally
around the bolt triangle...
Include in this design an azimuth adjustable sub-frame where you can
orient an Acme style screw (large) with an appropriate cradle to saddle
the side of the top 1-2" of bolt.
Use the Acme screw setup with a large wrench to snug it up as far tight
as possible in the direct one screw needs to go. MARK the tightening
mechanism such that you can count turns. RECORD the clock position of
the index mark.
NOW,
1) use a cheater pipe to further tighten ONE clock hour.... let off.
Record clock position you were at ON PAPER (5 O'clock, 6, 7, etc)
2) Is the bolt in the right position?
Yes: setup on second bolt and repeat.
No: Go To #1
The idea is to ONLY bend the bolt over JUST enough past the yield point
such that when you let off, the bolt remains in the EXACT position you
need it in.
AND you won't bung up your threads IF you use and aluminum-based saddle.
Hope this gives you some ideas...
73,
______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389
On 7/22/2017 12:21 PM, marsh@ka5m.net wrote:
> There's no way I'd apply heat to the bolts over concern of weakening the
> bolts.
>
> I'd try to cut the template off with a reciprocating saw or a grinder.
>
> Why do you need 12" sticking out above the level of the concrete? That does
> seem like a lot.
>
> If it were me, I'd "tap" the bolts over a little with a sledge hammer. That
> may be difficult to impossible with the template on.
>
> I've had the same situation before, and a few "taps" with a sledgehammer was
> an easy fix (with the template removed).
>
>
> Marsh, KA5M
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