From Wikpedia:
"Authorities disagree on whether nyloc nuts should be reused. For example,
Carroll Smith (Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing
Handbook) notes that the nylon insert is not damaged by installation and
therefore they can be reused many times, [1] and a Federal Aviation
Administration Advisory Circular allows nuts to be reused if the prevailing
torque is within specification. [3] An Air Force Technical Order requires
replacement of self-locking nuts in critical areas. [4] Various
specifications for aerospace-grade self-locking nuts require that the
running torque be maintained after a number of cycles of assembly, but
without preloading the fastener.[5]"
Having once been very much aware of and concerned with the proper use of
registered tradenames or trademarks I see that neither nyloc or nylock are
any longer registered tradenames with the US Patent Office, once were, but
neither registration had nothing to do with fasterners, interesting. I was
looking at the use of capitalizing the names or otherwise identifying them
as being trademarked, but lower case is quite correct (that's a note to me
not the group!!).
Don W7WLL
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Gallo
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 1:38 PM
To: Don W7WLL
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Nylok nuts
<snip>
I also thought that there was a rule on the auto side (way back when I
worked on cars) that since a Nylock degrades each time it is removed that
the max reuse was 3 times, but replacement is better. I use some Nylock's
on
my antennas here on the coast just off the ocean and they get a LOT of UV
and salt, but have held up.
Don W7WLL
<snip>
Don,
Something I learned LONG ago when I USED to work on my cars (I'll give
brakes as an example)
used to go to replace my drum brake pads on my 1969 Catalina (I did say it
was long ago) and the job was always a bear, full of frustration.
Finances improved a bit, and I wouldn't just buy the pads (and if
necessary get the drums cut etc), I'd buy the whole "Rebuild kit" - came
with the springs (both the retaining and retracting), and the star wheel,
and all those other parts. Cost about 1/4-1/2 the price of the pads. SO
much nicer to work with new, clean, non rusty, non worn hardware. (Later
I learned about "just either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder too
while you are at it")
I find that on hardware exposed for years to the elements, just buy
replacement hardware before hand. Hardware is "cheap", and it is a lot
less frustrating to not have to worry if some stainless hardware is
galled, or some carbon steel nut is rusty, or the nylock nut is worn out!
I mean, Fastenal.com is NOT the cheapest place in the world (far from it),
but they will sell you one 1/4-20 stainless nylock nut for 20 cents (19
and change cents), or a bag of 50 for $9.78
Want to get crazy? Use a flex top lock nut (looks like a castle nut, BUT
the top is just a compressed nut, think it locks like nylon, but is steel)
Another option is K-nuts/Jet nuts (usually only fine thread). They lock
because of an elliptical offset, but they are expensive - try 2-3x the
price of a nylock nut. They are usually NOT stainless, but _ARE_ often
mil-spec Cadmium Plate
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms21042.php
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