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Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...

To: w3ea@hotmail.com, lists@oakcom.org, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...
From: TexasRF--- via TowerTalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Reply-to: TexasRF@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2016 15:13:34 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Amen brother! Most of us would not have given this any thought at all.  
Tower sections are not totally and completely rigid structures. They can and  
will conform to the guy stresses. 
 
73,
Gerald K5GW
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/12/2016 1:50:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
w3ea@hotmail.com writes:

WOW ....  this is getting over thought  IMO.. it's a 40 ft/ tower not a  
watch
with one level of guys....  PUT it up attach the  guys and  adjust there 
tension to plumb the tower
install the top section ( I am  assuming your attaching the guys @ the 30' 
level )
install the last section  antennas ect and HAVE FUN

Wayne  W3EA


> To:  towertalk@contesting.com
> From: lists@oakcom.org
> Date: Thu, 11  Feb 2016 23:43:06 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower  section is not plumb...
> 
> Douglas,
> 
> Oh boy, at  the risk of getting all the engineers and lawyers and 
> would-be's in a  dander, I'll suggest this - with the caveats that I 
> don't really know  what kind of tower sections you have other than your 
> description that  it's equivalent to Rohn 25. And I don't know whether 
> you have an  informed inherent feel for how much lateral stress your 
> tower can  handle.
> 
> But if I had 30' of *guyed* Rohn 25 sticking out of  1/2 cu. yd of 
> concrete at a slight angle and for some reason  absolutely needed to make 
> it plumb, I'd do this:
> 
> 1)  I'd rig up a ratchet binder (come-along) or 2 in the appropriate 
>  direction(s) attached to to the top of the bottom section (10' or 15' 
>  up) and anchored out to solid attachment point(s).
> 
> 2) I'd dig  out all the way around the foundation.
> 
> 3) I'd loosen the  guy(s) in the direction(s) the tower is leaning.
> 
> 4) I'd  tighten the ratchet binder(s) to plumb the tower.
> 
> 5) The best  back-fill would be additional concrete all around. A 
> *little* soupy  would be best so it under-fills any new gap under the 
base.
> 
>  6) Of course leave the ratchet binders in place and the loosened guys 
>  loosened until the new concrete is well set.
> 
> If your existing  concrete is something like 2' x 2' x 3' deep, this 
> should work. If  it's a lot bigger or wider, it will be more of a problem.
> 
>  Note: Personally I wouldn't worry about a little lean, but everyone has  
> their own priorities.
> 
> Best,
> 
> -Steve  K8LX
> 
> On 2/11/2016 6:51 PM, Douglas Ruz (CO8DM) wrote:
>  
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have been thinking and I am  really want my tower straight and plumb.
> >
> > I am  considering digging out some side of the base to adjust the tower
> >  level.
> >
> > Any tips or thoughts ???
> >
>  > Can I just digging 2 sides or all 4 sides of tower bease???
>  >
> > About backfilling...what is the best add concrete again for  
backfilling???
> >
> > what is the best method to move the  base to adjust the level ??...it is
> > about 2000 pounds  base.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> >  73....Douglas, CO8DM
> 
> >> If your tower is the equivalent  of R25, and only 30', there's not much
> >> you can do to it to  really overstress it, unless you try real hard.
> >>
>  >> But if you really want it straight AND plumb, consider digging out  
the
> >> appropriate side of the foundation and letting the the  concrete adjust
> >> itself, and then backfilling it back  in.
> >>
> >> At that point it will become what you  want it to be, merely an
> >> anti-sink device.
>  >>
> >> -Steve K8LX
> 
>  _______________________________________________
> 
> 
>  
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