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Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Easy removal of Heat Shrink Tubing

To: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>, "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Easy removal of Heat Shrink Tubing
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2015 15:27:37 -0800
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Roger's heat shrink removal explanation shows one peril of adhesive heat shrink, that is the adhesive is not really adhered to the connector body. Andrew specifies preheating of Heliax connector bodies prior to slipping on the adhesive shrink and then shrinking the tubing. Of course the larger the connector, the more it is a heat sink that doesn't get hot enough thru the wall of the tubing for the adhesive to tightly bond to the metal.

IMO, unless the adhesive is adhered to the connector the joint will be tight, but not totally watertight. However, there still is some protection and an excellent strain relief. I think the cable jacket fairly easily gets hot enough to have the adhesive stick to it.

Grant KZ1W

On 12/21/2015 12:08 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:

If the connection is cool or cold, this approach works better than warm or hot.
Room temp works well, but may leave more residue.

There is a bit of a learning curve. Some pick it up right away while others, not so much. Using a sharp knife, or box cutter with the blade extended just enough to cut through the heat shrink. Make a single cut lengthwise from one end to the other of the heat shrink. A second cut on the other side works well, but it's another chance to cut into the coax jacket. The cut does not need to go all the way through the heat shrink

Using a pair of pliers, channel locks / slip joint pliers grab the heat shrink at or close to the cut with the other jaw of the pliers about one third of the way around the coax and pinch the heat shrink. If you go too far it will pinch the coax. That should pull a section away from the coax jacket Repeat on each side of the cut along the length of the seat shrink.

Doing takes less time than explaining.

If the connection is cool, the heat shrink adhesive "usually" breaks away from the connector, leaving the connector relatively clean. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm The splice shown in the bottom right side photo shows a N-Type connector splice after the flooded (adhesive lined) heat shrink has been removed. Some residual glue is visible on the coax jacket but the connectors are relatively clean


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