If the connection is cool or cold, this approach works better than warm
or hot.
Room temp works well, but may leave more residue.
There is a bit of a learning curve. Some pick it up right away while
others, not so much.
Using a sharp knife, or box cutter with the blade extended just enough
to cut through the heat shrink.
Make a single cut lengthwise from one end to the other of the heat
shrink. A second cut on the other side works well, but it's another
chance to cut into the coax jacket. The cut does not need to go all the
way through the heat shrink
Using a pair of pliers, channel locks / slip joint pliers grab the heat
shrink at or close to the cut with the other jaw of the pliers about one
third of the way around the coax and pinch the heat shrink. If you go
too far it will pinch the coax. That should pull a section away from the
coax jacket Repeat on each side of the cut along the length of the seat
shrink.
Doing takes less time than explaining.
If the connection is cool, the heat shrink adhesive "usually" breaks
away from the connector, leaving the connector relatively clean.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm The splice
shown in the bottom right side photo shows a N-Type connector splice
after the flooded (adhesive lined) heat shrink has been removed. Some
residual glue is visible on the coax jacket but the connectors are
relatively clean
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
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