For future reference:
1. First test the tower using the local
controls, without wiring in the control box.
2. Then wire in the control box and test that.
Incorrectly or incompletely connecting the
control box will cause the tower not to work
in either local or remote mode.
How to save $1000: just remote the toggle switch
on the top of the big metal box using a 3 conductor
cable. WATCH the tower go up and down instead of
relying on limit switches and indicator lights.
ADD a power disconnect switch in case the relay sticks.
BE NEAR the disconnect in case you need to use it.
Rick N6RK
On 10/25/2014 12:28 PM, Bill Straw via TowerTalk wrote:
Thanks for advice from several.
Been at it all morning following various suggestions....
The tower wouldn't go down using the base switch or the remote.
Maybe a limit switch is damaged. The tower was stuck extended 5' so both
limit switches were not pressed in. When I pushed on the up-limit switch it
made an audible click like a switch should. The down limit switch makes no
click.
Then I got even more confused. I took out the ohmmeter and the schematic.
When I closed the down-limit switch with a block of wood (18' up the tower)
what the schematic clearly shows as the up-limit switch went from open to
closed (0 ohms)
So then thinking US tower had wired the limit switches wrong I reversed
the wiring in the box for the limit switches, and the tower would go down not
up. At least I got it down.
Anyway, this is too confusing. I guess US Tower will have to help me figure
it out next week.
Moral of the story, I spent $1K extra on a remote control to save a few steps.
In the last four hours I have done the equivilant leg work that I would have
ever done/saved and the tower still doesn't work!
73, Bill KO7SS
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