I used to live in NE Illinois and in southern Louisiana and that's
exactly how I did my long grounding rods. No stones at all to run
into. Here in Connecticut it took a lot of effort to find exact
placement for my HI-Z Rx array, the soil is one big rock with a thin
surface layer dirt on top. Get a few inches down & hit solid.
73,
Gary
KA1J
> On 4/22/2014 10:24 PM, GARY HUBER wrote:
> > Here in rural Illinois, where the soil has not been compacted, often
> > we can dig a cup size starter hole, fill it with water, stand the
> > ground rod in the water and then push the rod down as far as it will
> > go then pull it up add water, push the rod down, pull up, add water,
> > and repeat the cycle until the rod is in as far as we need it. In
> > most cases no tools are needed, maybe two gallons of water, and no
> > more than twenty minutes per rod.
> >
>
>
> I'd say that indicates one whale of a big base for towers, be they self
> supporting or guyed! One big rain and your guyed tower would be a
> section shorter<:-))
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>
> > 73 & DX,
> > Gary - AB9M
> >
> > -----Original Message----- From: Tony
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 6:06 PM
> > To: towertalk@contesting.com
> > Subject: [TowerTalk] Ground Rod Myths?
> >
> > All:
> >
> > I came across a website that claimed it's better to use the hydraulic
> > pressure from water hose to drive ground rods instead of pounding them
> > into the ground. The idea is to prevent damage to the copper clad. I can
> > see how this would make the installation easier, but can't imagine the
> > copper being stripped away that easily. Any truth to this?
> >
> > The site also mentioned that the copper strap or wire that joins one
> > ground rod to the next should be buried at least a foot below ground
> > level while another said a few inches is fine. I suspect deeper is
> > better.
> >
> > Thanks...
> >
> > Tony
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