| Ditto, I use a Harbor Freight demo hammer and a home brew insert (to avoid 
$80 + shipping for store bought AKA COTS.)  Works good but in really hard 
ground takes a while and don't forget the hearing protection.  When driving 
rods with a sledge in hard ground the rod tends to bend.  Before driving in 
these conditions slip a piece of pipe over the rod to keep it from bending. 
You may need 2-3 different lengths of pipe to accommodate the shortening 
ground rod as it is driven. 
Warning: do not try to drive the rod with a demo hammer by inserting the end 
of the rod into the hammer.  The rod may mushroom and then be locked inside 
the hammer, PERMANENTLY. I came close, hence the home brew attachment for 
rod driving. 
Patrick AF5CK
-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary K9GS 
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 8:13 PM
To: Towertalk Mailing List
Subject: [TowerTalk] Driving ground rods
While on the topic of ground rods.
Today I had to drive some 5/8 X 8 foot ground rods.  I live on top of a
ridge that was part of the glacial push South into Southern Wisconsin.
Think sandy rocky soil with many rocks about fist sized plus hard clay.
25 years ago I had to dig a hole for a mailbox post and it took me all
day with a post hole digger.
Anyway, to drive these ground rods I rented a demolition hammer from
Home Depot.  Think small electric jack hammer that looks like a big
drill.  Made by Makita.  In place of the chisel that is usually used,
they had a bit made for driving ground rods.  Basically a hollow sleeve
that fits over the end of the ground rod.
Used an 8 ft stepladder and a friend to help.  The ground rods went in
like a hot knife through butter.  Each one took less than 5 minutes and
no pounding with a sledge hammer, water pipes, post driver, etc.  Truly
amazingly fast.  The best money I've ever spent.
--
73,
Gary K9GS
Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032 http://www.cwops.org
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