One thought, and I'm sure you probably have checked this: you are not
hitting the threads on the rotator itself with the unthreaded body/shaft of
the bolt? I think the T2X has bolts with at least a 1/2" body. If the body
is longer, it would hit the threads and not go much further.
Like other have suggested, check that you do have the correct bolts. MFJ
sent the wrong nuts for the u bolt that holds one of their Hygain baluns.
They were aware of the error and would have replaced them, but I had all
ready replaced with the correct nuts and mounted the balun on the antenna
which was 35ft. It was not worth the trouble of sending in two wrong nuts
for replacement.
Ray,
N6VR
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Roger (K8RI)
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 12:39 PM
To: w4lde@numail.org; Tower and HF antenna construction topics.
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Trouble mounting T-2X
w4lde wrote:
> Started to mount a new T-2X purchased on 3/3/10 yesterday. Made up
> all of the plugs and checked the rotor out on the ground at the tower.
> Rotor worked properly on the ground
>
> Dropped the tower and tilted it over so we could install the rotor
> body and mast. We checked the bolts and the tower mounting plate for
> the correct mounting and they aligned OK. The rotor plate is heavy
> duty 3/8 to 1/2" thick and welded in place.
>
> I had only insert the mounting bolts in the body a few turns before
> taking it outside and didn't notice anything unusual. Used some anti
> seize lube' on the bolts.
>
#1 question. Are you sure the thread size and count is the proper one?
(IE 5/16 bolt IIRC and NF or NC thread) Are you sure the threads in the
rotator body are proper and complete. As N6FD questioned, are you sure there
are no shavings left in there. Double check to verify what the bolt size and
number of threads *should* be. If necessary find some one with a thread
gage and make sure what you have is what you want/
If the bolt threads and body holes are the same size (and count, or threads
per inch) the bolts should turn in freely, all the way by hand.
It's not uncommon to find bolts with threads that are not full depth, or
with the wrong threads per inch even when the bolts are the proper diameter
and holes with only partial threads or threads that only go part way
through. In the old housing the holes went all the way through with full
threads. There are both National Fine and National coarse threads.
If necessary you may need to run a finishing tap into the threaded holes in
the base of the rotator. This is something that should be done with the
rotator disassembled (you don't want metal shavings running around in there)
and only as a last resort after you have proven the threads in the body have
not been cut to full depth.
73 and good luck,
Roger (K8RI)
> My helper (brother) did notice that the rotor body bolt holes seemed a
> little out of the pattern and very close to one edge, however, when
> aligning the body to the rotor plate they look almost dead on. So we
> proceeded, then the trouble started.
>
> The mounting bolts turned in hand tight about a 1/4 of the way in, not
> free at all and got to the point (1/4 way) that we decided to use my
> small ratchet set.
>
> Not even 1/2 way in the bolts started to seize and we were very
> reluctant to proceed. I checked the depth of the holes in the body
> and they are free in equal to the length of the bolts.
>
> We backed out the bolts and lowered the rotor to the ground and again
> tired to insert and screw in the bolts while free of any mounting
> plate with the same results.
The difference between NF and NC with 5/16 bolts is enough you should only
be able to get a couple threads turned in before they'd bind. Now if one
set of threads is metric and the other American then it would be possible
to have a much closer match.
When it comes to rethreading and particularly in cast Aluminum it's very
easy to end up with too little thread left to have much if any holding
strength.
> It almost seems like the threads are not right for the mounting
> bolts or the bolts are two long
The bolts should screw all the way into the casting unless they've changed
the design.
> but we didn't want to
> over tighten. The bolts were in a plastic package so I assume they
> were the correct ones supplied by the factory.
>
> Looks like we did slightly bend one bolt head and not sure when that
> occurred but I can always get a new bolt locally.
>
> Any ideas? Your input and help will be appreciated.
>
> 73 de
> Ron W4LDE
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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>
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