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Re: [TowerTalk] N - clamp style connector

To: "Tower and HF antenna construction topics." <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] N - clamp style connector
From: "Roger (K8RI)" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Reply-to: "Tower and HF antenna construction topics." <towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:29:10 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>

Steve Katz wrote:
> Sure, use the right connector!  :-P
>
> There are dozens of different model type N connectors.  I avoid the RFX
> ones for the reason sited and also because the braid clamp is "shiny"
> and slippery and allows the clamp to rotate against the braid, which it
> should not do.  "Astroplate" weathers great and connectors unprotected
> outdoors look brand new 10 years later -- but it's just not great in
> many other ways.
>   
I'm pretty sure those are the ones that turn a rough, dusty, bluish 
green around here. Nickel plate is terrible and silver just disappears.  
That's the main reason I never worry about turning connectors into 
permanent attachments and use the flooded heat shrink.  IT also keeps 
them nice and clean. Now if the crimping bands were readily available 
those connectors could easily be reused as I normally solder the center pin.

 73

Roger (K8RI)
> I use silver plated UG-21D/U (real mil-spec) type Ns, mostly from Kings
> or Delta, sometimes Amphenol or Trompeter.  If you know Joel at The RF
> Connection in MD, he knows enough about connectors to know which ones
> will tightly clamp and fit RG213/U and which ones won't.  The "good
> stuff" costs more.  ;-)
>
> 73
>
> Steve WB2WIK/6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of TexasRF@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 3:02 PM
> To: towertalk@contesting.com; w4lde@numail.org
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] N - clamp style connector
>
> Steve, your info is very timely as I encountered that very problem today
>
> while building a 70cm 2 way power divider with RG213/u.
>  
> Do you have a solution for the loose fitting nut?
>  
> 73,
> Gerald K5GW
>  
>  
>  
>  
> In a message dated 3/10/2010 4:46:45 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> stevek@jmr.com writes:
>
> As  someone who's actually set up assembly lines to install Type N
> military  connectors for USAF contracts (20+ years ago!), I might add
> one
> of the  biggest problems hams have is misapplication of connector vs.
> coax.   Even a skilled expert who's assembled thousands of N connectors
> on cables  is going to be highly challenged if the right materials
> aren't
> presented to  him.
>
> As an example, I see a lot of hams using the UG-21D/U connectors  from
> the Amphenol "RFX" series (82-202-RFX or equivalent).  You might  note
> those are intended for "RG8, RG9, RG213, RG214" cables.  Well,  this is
> downright impossible.  RG8 and RG213 are single shielded and  smaller in
> O.D. than RG9 and RG214 which are double-shielded.  For a  "clamp"
> connector, how can a single design work for cables having either  one or
> two shields, and having two different O.D.s?   Impossible.
>
> So what Amphenol did, in their infinite wisdom, was make  the connector
> suitable for double shielded cable with a larger O.D., and  figured
> somehow we'd make that work for the other stuff.  It really  doesn't.
>
> If you use one of these connectors (or hundreds of varieties  like them)
> you'll find that on single braided cable like RG213, or 9913 or  LMR400
> etc, the clamp does not clamp tightly (it clamps loosely, even with  the
> nut fully tightened) and there's a gap between the jacket of the  cable
> and the hole in the rear nut.  That's 'cause the cable's not  right for
> the connector.
>
> Now use the same connector, but with  RG214/U, having two braids and the
> proper O.D.  What a  difference!  The clamp clamps very tightly, before
> the nut is fully  threaded into the connector body, and the hole in the
> rear nut just barely  passes the cable -- after assembly, there is no
> visible gap there at  all.
>
> WB2WIK/6
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com]  On Behalf Of w4lde
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 2:37 PM
> To:  towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] N - clamp style  connector
>
> Thanks to all that replied, I remember that I never had  soldered the 
> shield and thought that was the correct method.
>
> I will  also as many have suggested use some heat shrink for stability
> as
>
> well  as helping with water intrusion.  Was planning on #33 or #88 tape
>
> plus some fusion style tape to help with the final  connections.
>
> Again thanks to everyone for your comments.
>
> 73  de
> Ron W4LDE
>
>
> On 3/10/2010 3:18 PM, TexasRF@aol.com  wrote:
>   
>> Ron, the clamping ring for N connectors is nickel plated. You  will
>>     
> turn the
>   
>>   coax to charcoal before successfully  soldering the shield to it.
>>
>> One of the major failure modes  with N connectors is having the shield
>>     
> work
>   
>> loose due to pulling  and twisting the cable. A short piece of heat
>>     
> shrink
>   
>> tubing   over the clamping end of the connector and a couple inches of
>>     
> the
>   
>>  coax will  provide excellent reinforcement and improved  reliability.
>>
>> The recommended connector installation procedure  has worked very well
>>     
> for a
>   
>>   lot of  years.
>>
>> 73,
>> Gerald  K5GW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 3/10/2010  12:00:01 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>> w4lde@numail.org  writes:
>>
>> Just  getting ready to install some a new beam  and  coax plus N style
>> male  connectors on a new  tower.  It's been awhile since I last used
>>     
> one
>   
>> (N  style)  and have reviewed via the WEB and the ARRL handbook
>> recommended   installation methods and find two different methods with
>> respect to  the  barrel and shield connection.
>>
>> The barrel I am  referring to is the small  piece were the shield is
>> folded back  over and then compressed and held in  place by a O-ring,
>> washer  and screw in clamp.
>>
>> The ARRL handbook  does not call for  any solder of the shield to the
>> barrel peace but on one  ham web  sites recommends that the shield be
>> soldered to the barrel  insert  piece and then assembled the same way
>>     
> as
>   
>> the non  soldered.  If I  remember and it has been some time since  I
>>     
> used
>   
>> N type but I believe I did  not solder the shield but  relied on the
>> compression and clamp fittings to  make good  contact from the shield
>>     
> to
>   
>> the N fitting.
>>
>>  Would  appreciate your opinion, to SOLDER or NOT to  SOLDER.
>>
>> 73 de
>> Ron  W4LDE
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