----- Original Message -----
From: "mryan001" <mryan001@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>;
<TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] silicon sealant
> Since I missed it and perhaps someone else did as well, what is the
> recommened RTV type ( brand, etc) of sealant?- Mike
>
I don't remember all of the numbers, but for Room Temperature Vulcanizing
(RTV) Silicone sealants both GE and Dow Corning produce equivelant
products. You may have a problem finding the Dow Corning brand but look for
DAP which now sells the stuff. I can only speak for the Silicone sealants
though. Virtually any of the bathtub calk, window sealant, you name it that
smells like acetic acid should work. I do not know how well the Latex or
Latex/Silicone sealants will hold up.
Do not coat a fitting and then tape it up over the sealant until AFTER the
sealant has cured for at least two days.
ORIGINALLY the DC products would have been in the 700 series although that
covers quite a range. Also a Google search will turn up a lot of
information on these sealants.
Although the acetic acid is corosive it should not be any problem when used
out in the open. Just don't use it in closed boxes or with very thick
single applications. Both the DC and GE RTVs cure with the aid of moisture
in the air and the acetic acid evaporates. They are also easy to form using
either an ice cube or "wet finger" as the *stuff* doesn't stick to anything
wet. Calking windows or bathtubs. Put a line the right size of the stuff in
the proper place, wet a finger and use said finger to slide down the joint
forming a nice conforming silicone seal. (You do have to repeatedly wet the
finger) In the case of windows the Latex/Silicone, or Latex is paintable
while most of the Silicone sealant is not.
Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com
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