Yep, I have Scotch 33 and 88 and the double sided sticky Scotch.
Used them all in cold Ky and hot Fla.
Results is as I stated.
ScotchKoat will crack unprotected, never tried
it under tape (tested cold and hot).
New CoaxSeal will be there as installed
for 16 yrs if covered by tape (tested Fla).
As Dr. Johnson sez, the last couple of turns
of any tape must be done after cleanly cutting
(can use any knife or scissors, not teeth) and
not pulling at all. Never end the taping by
pulling until it breaks, of course.
Silicone, the type supplied in the box with
Cushcraft beams, develops acid and the hardening
of the outside first keeps the stuff safely inside
the seal and directly on ur fittings. I poured
acid out of my coax plugs after 4 yrs in Illinois.
However, water incursion will occur almost always
over the long term, but Dr. Johnson is right on
in support of the heat shrink with melting goop
inside--great.
73, Dr. Charles H. Harpole, Ph.D. NYU 1976
Charles Harpole
k4vud@hotmail.com
> From: geraldj@storm.weather.net
> To: tentec@contesting.com
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 00:47:04 -0600
> Subject: Re: [TenTec] parts not SS
>
> On Fri, 2009-05-01 at 07:39 +0000, Charles Harpole wrote:
>> Yep, many brands of hose clamps have a plated
>>
>> screw which fails before the SS part, of course.
>>
>> Weird construction. I goop such clamp screws
>>
>> with black sillycone sealer all around... do not leave
>>
>> voids which will fill with water.
>>
>> The raw fiberglass rods that insulate parts on some
>>
>> Cushcraft will start to "hair off" without the same
>>
>> sillycone treatment. Electrical tape, so often the
>>
>> ham's "friend" is just not .... it shrinks and curls,
>>
>> withdraws the end leaving a flag, or cracks.
>
> There is Scotch 33 (or 88) and there is black tape from the western
> Pacific rim. The two are totally different.
>
> The tape peeling and pulling back is a function of how its been treated.
> When its stretched to break, even Scotch 33 will pull back. Its much
> better to be cut with the Kleins and the last turn or two not be
> stretched at all.
>
> ScotchKote is a good cover, far better than coaxseal that falls apart in
> the sun. If you really want waterproof, several layers alternating
> Scotch 33 and ScotchKote really works. On our repeater it kept 9913 dry
> on a water tower for about 20 years. Until the advent of heat shrink
> tubing with a melting interior it was the electrical industry standard
> for insulating underground spices and repairs.
>>
>> Seal coax fittings with one wrap of electrical tape, NOT
>>
>> pulled so tight, followed by a wrap of CoaxSeal, followed
>>
>> by a loose wrap of electrical tape. The inner tape allows fast
>>
>> and clean removal of the CoaxSeal, the CoaxSeal keeps the
>>
>> water out, and the outer wrap protects the CoaxSeal from
>>
>> being scraped off by accidental movement of the cable.
>>
>> Do not use sillycone sealer directly on coax plugs because
>>
>> the evaporation of the stuff often evaporates INSIDE itself,
>>
>> making a nice acidic splash on ur plug. 73,
>
> Ordinary silicone sealer creates acetic acid (vinegar) as it cures and
> that will corrode stuff encased in it. If often takes shopping at an
> industrial supplier to find silicone sealer that cures without making
> acetic acid. McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) is one possiblity, home
> centers tend to not carry the safe silicone.
>>
>>
>> Charles Harpole
>> k4vud@hotmail.com
>>
> 73, Jerry, K0CQ
>
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