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Re: [Amps] gun drilling liquid cooling holes and making

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] gun drilling liquid cooling holes and making
From: Tim O'Rourke <w4yn@earthlink.net>
Reply-to: Tim O'Rourke <w4yn@arrl.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 12:45:41 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
If u can stand the wait send me the part and I will do all the work for u. If 
not I believe thet are refering to using an expanding roller mandrel to expand 
the tube. If u try anything else u will probably gauld the two metals together!
You can not easily solder copper to aluminum!
May I suggest you pipe tap the end of each hole and then attach tubing to 
manifold with 1/4 tube to 1/8 pipe adaptors.
I can drill and tap this for u if you want. 
73

>Harold,
>    I will check at the auto hobby shop on base, they may have a bead blaster. 
>  In absence of getting my hands on any sodium hydroxide, is there any 
> household item that I may use to acid etch it like maybe some kind of draino 
> product designed to free clogged drains?  If they don't have a bead blaster, 
> I may just use emory cloth by hand on the fins.  Definitely won't paint it.
>    I am going to use a combination of this aluminum heat sink and also a 
> copper heat spreader that I have coming off ebay and liquid cooling, yes this 
> is going to be overkill but I don't see how that is going to hurt anything.
>   I am emailing some stateside machine shops about getting some "gun 
> drilling" done for the liquid cooling holes (1/4inch across a 5 inch width).  
> I read that commercially, they expand the 1/4inch tubes inside the gun 
> drilled holes but that isn't an option because I don't have a clue how to 
> "expand" 1/4inch OD copper brake line inside of a gun drilled 1/4inch hole.  
> I was thinking to take a drill bit just a little larger in diameter after I 
> get the gun drilling done and push the copper brake tubing in maybe 1/2" and 
> then solder the tube in place.  I am concerned that once I heat up the heat 
> spreader with a torch momentarily to get the solder to bond the brake tubing 
> to the gun drilled hole then I will warp it.  If I warp it, this will open up 
> a can of worms when trying to get a good surface to attach the heatsunk 
> devices and the aluminum heat sink as well. Any ideas on how to attach the 
> brake line to the heat spreader?  The heat spreader is 3/8" thick and the OD 
> of the
> hole will be approximately 1/4" I've never worked with copper (C110) like 
> this and another person even said the copper can get gummy when drilling it?


Tim O'Rourke 
W4YN@ARRL.Net
Low Power Amateur Radio Rocks 
Member of Flying Pigs,ARCI,GQRP,RSGB,ARRL Life Member
NHRA Life Member
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