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Re: [Amps] Nat NCL2000

To: HOWARDLYON@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Nat NCL2000
From: "m.ford" <k1ern@direcway.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 15:50:35 -0500
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <HOWARDLYON@aol.com>
To: <k1ern@direcway.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Nat NCL2000


> In a message dated 02/24/06 13:28:20 Eastern Standard Time,  
> k1ern@direcway.com writes:
> 
> 
>>  Hi guys
>> 
>> Trying to renovate an old NCL2000.  Hadda  shotgun the doubler  board.  The 
>> caps were teenagers with  pimples and whiteheads  everywhere.  The dividers 
> were 
>> all  outta spec... 75k to 120k!~!~!  New  board is 12 pairs of  
> 68uF/450V/105* 
>> radials (about 11uF/5+kV) shunted by 12  100k/5W;  new bypassed diode 
> stacks; 
>> Dale 25W heat-sinked limiter resistors; on  a  3/16 XX phenolic board with 
>> grommeted mounts and silvered  test pin  connections.
> 
> I have rebuilt a number of these boards. I  can't quite picture the 
> configuration you describe.



> What caps did ya use?



  (CDE WBR100-450  or MALLORY TC80)

> 
> The caps (DigiKey P11692)  rated at 0.76Aripple each (1.5A para) and  ESRs at 
> 1.950.  The only way I could figure to replace the old  monsters...... and 
> still stay clear of the chassis.  As is, the tops of the  cans will be about 
> a 
> quarter inch from the bottom screening.  Glad they  have PVC caps under the 
> wrappers.
> 
> 
> Do  you have  a photo?  Also you might want to reconsider using the Dale  for 
> a glitch
> resistor. It will become a fragmentation grenade if given  enough Joules to 
> eat. Or at
> least a double ended cannon.
> See attached JPGs.
> 
> The Dales are 10ohm/25W in series with each diode stack with a common  connex 
> to the lower txfmr lead on the schematic  Surge protection for the  diodes.  
> About an 8 V drop and 6 or 7W diss.  Thot the 25W shud gimme  a bit of 
> comfort.  Inna glitch, they oughta hold for a second or so 'til  the overload 
> trips.  
> I hope.
> 
> The diodes are two sets of three 1000V/6A R6-body barrels, shunted with  
> .01/1000V caps.  Should I have used 4?  Some say forgeddabout the  caps.  The 
> weakest link, and all that good folderol.  Wotz ur take on  it?

(I use K2AW  HV6-1  modules in place of the oem solitrons)


> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> Replaced the caps in the grid supplies.   Replaced and bypassed  alla the 
>> diodes.  Replaced the  smoked HV control relay.  Made the  wiring change to 
> the two  
>> 75k bleeders.
> 
> Add another one of the 75K to the stack. It will  fit if you use shorter 
> spacers. Keep the
> same reason for the wiring change  in mind. You may get a slight rise in the 
> unloaded B+
> but the heat  reduction is significant. The 8122 is near its anode potential 
> limit in the  ncl
> anyway so if you loose a tube from this it is ok to blame me. It is not  ok 
> however to
> blame me if you use cheap little filter caps that can't  handle the ripple.
> Nah... won't bust ur jewels.  Yeah I read the tube sheets.  Know  what ya 
> mean.  Nudge nudge.  Wink wink.  Was even wondering about  surge protecting 
> the 
> 240 primary leads.  Lower the turn on, and dump the HV  down a tad.  
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> The screen supply txstrs test OK, but the  resistance measurements through  
>> the network are all well beyond  10% out.  Anybody ever notice this?   Any 
> ideas?
> 
> I think  you mean the bias supply regulator? In any case, I would be 
> surprised if  any
> of the original components were within original  tolerances.
> Yeah... answering too many mails too fast.  The grid supply.  I'm  blushing.  
> :-|
> 
> 
>>  
>> What is the ALC output?  My IC746 accepts 0 to -4V.  The  circuit  looks 
> like 
>> it puts out much more than -4.   Attenuator time?
> 
> Remove the alc output jack and install another pot for  the bias circuit. 
> Wire it to allow
> seperate bias adjustment of each tube.  Key the beast with a dual foot switch 
> so nobody
> complains about the  "kaawaak" sound from the relay.
> Ummmm..... dat don't sound kosher.  KAAWAK????

(The changeover relay is loud. By using a dual footswitch you key the amp first,
before the exciter and the sound of the relay is lost on everyone but you)


> 
> 
> 
> Check out Rich Measures website for some other interesting  things you can do.
> Righto righto.  Been there.  Got it printed and in the  notebook... the 
> resistive divider supply (old-thymey) to replace the  (super-modern) 
> electronic 
> auto bias.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike k1ern
> Thanx Mike.  Good to have you guys for input ahead of time.  Imma  virgin, be 
> gentle with me.
> 
> ;-))
> 
> Unca Billy
> N3TR
> 
Mike k1ern





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