Hi Bob,
I find the 'Amsoil Arctic grease' is better than the thicker grease for
low temp operation. The grease is about the consistency of petroleum
jelly, but has excellent low temp characteristics. I forget the
numbers, but it's good to very low temp.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/arctic-synthetic-grease/
I had a problem with my stuff not wanting to turn when the temp was in
the single digits. Because it was so slow to turn, it would cause a
fault in my Green Heron controller.
You should have no issue with either grease out in California.
Of course, this is just my opinion.
73 de Steve, NR4M
On 12/3/2018 6:18 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
Thanks Steve,
I have my list of stuff to get for the rebuild just about finished and realized I need some
grease too. The Amzoil Arctic grease sounds great. Not as demanding on bearings
here in CA but I might as well use the best grease I can for the job. Thanks for the
recommendation !
I have decided to not skimp and replace everything that is replaceable in the old T2X.
Getting both the rheostat and wiper, even the case bolts. I think Murphy's Law for
rebuilding rotators is "the part that you did not replace will be the part that will
fail" hihihi.
Lots of sage advice from you guys on rebuilding the rotator, much appreciated !
Especially for setting up a way to capture the bearing balls so they don't roll all over
the garage floor :-)
73,BobK6UJ
On Monday, December 3, 2018, 3:03:34 PM PST, Steve Bookout
<steve@nr4m.com> wrote:
Would be nice if I included the link...
https://www.mcmaster.com/10175K15
Steve, NR4M
On 12/3/2018 5:57 PM, Steve Bookout wrote:
Bob,
This is what I've used for years on rotators and the slow speed
section of prop pitch gearboxes. ( I use Amsoil 'Arctic Grease' for
the high speed gearing.)
73 de Steve, NR4M
On 12/3/2018 5:46 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
What grease should I use for the ball bearings ? Anyone use
synthetic grease ?
BobK6UJ
On Monday, December 3, 2018, 12:39:53 PM PST, terry burge
<ki7m@comcast.net> wrote:
Concerning the hygain rotors. If you ever take one apart it can
create a real mess and you can have ball bearings from here till
dooms day. I use a large plastic tub of some kind about 2 1/2' square
and 1' deep. Anything like this will do. Once the bearings start
falling out it can be 'fun and games' getting them to stay in the
races. A good amount of lithium grease or similar sticky stuff is a
must. My tail twisters have some kind of plastic or (some) a metal
device that is to hold the bearings in. But once they start failing
out all bets are off.
A weak spot of these rotors is the reastat (however it's spelled)
loses electrical contact with the copper direction wiper. It can be
cleaned up with cleaner and emery cloth. I think emery cloth would be
better than steel wool but you need good contact with wiper and
reasts for the direction meter to work. Be gentile and don't bend
things much. An almost simpler method is to order a new copper wiper
and reastat from HyGain/MFJ if you can understand the on line
catalog. I find it kind of a pain and once ordering relays ended up
with two metal plates for my remote switch. Relays they weren't. Some
emails or phone calls and another order and I had replacement relays.
Half my antenna ports failed so I figured it was one of two relays.
Anyway, the big things with is that working with these rotors aren't
too bad and with some precautions they can be cleaned up and made to
work. Just use a tub of some kind unless you like chasing the cat
around on hands and knees to get the bearings back. What a mess. And
you don't want any rolling around inside the bell housings during
operation. Putting the rotor back together the bell has to be aligned
properly to work in the slots. If I recall the problem shows up as
the motor runs but the bell does not turn or only turns part way.
Kind of a funky looking setup and can take awhile to say 'Ah-Hah',
that's how it works'. Of course in the mean time bearing can be
failing out of the races!
With the wedge break models (larger models) the wedge slips into
the gear like slots around the lower bell housing. Pretty much the
whole things should be greased well with some quality product that
will stand up to wet and freezing conditions. Bearings, wedge, gears,
etc. There maybe some product that will work well to keep the
direction indicator lubed and functioning right but I don't recall
what it might be. Got to conduct the current to work the meter.
Meters not indicating are a weak point and it always seem to be
because of poor contact of the reastat and wiper.
If you take on the challenge of opening one of these or any
rotor...do it slowly noting the position of things like bell housing
and their matching slots, meter/restat, wedge break, etc. And use the
large tub because it seem like you always end up chasing bearings. A
good parts store or bearing dealer may be able to supply replacement
missing bearings if you can find one. I once added bearings to one of
the lesser earlier models just because I thought the idea of more
bearings in the races made a lot of sense. Not sure if it helped but
I was always building bigger and bigger antennas for that Ham 2 or
whatever way back when.
Hope this will help someone with this doable but challenging task.
And ALWAYS test the rotor thoroughly before reinstalling it on the
mast or tower. An ounce of prevention....
Terry
KI7M
On December 3, 2018 at 9:14 AM Bryan Swadener via TowerTalk
<towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:
Hi Ed,
That good info but, not ALL Hy-Gain rotators are the general "bell"
style. The HDR-300 that came w/ my TX-472 tower is Hy-Gain's "red
headed step child" and is completely different. With some info from
Craig Henderson "The Rotor Doc" and a couple others, I've resolved
MOST of their design errors.
vy 73,Bryan WA7PRC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2018 07:35:06 -0800
From: Ed AG6CX
Subject: [TowerTalk] Ham Antenna Rotator: The Teardown
Interesting article recently noted
https://www.electronicdesign.com/analog/ham-antenna-rotator-teardown
Ed McCann
AG6CX
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