By the way, while I totally understand why you'd want to tack weld the
bolts to the rebar, I've never thought much of welded rebar cages in
general. True weldable rebar (the stuff that is supposed to hold it's
strength after welding) is expensive and harder to get. The 40,000 PSI
stuff you can get at Lowes and Home Depot comes from indeterminate
source material (a mixture of washing machine chassis, old bed springs,
car frames, salvaged rebar, etc) and almost certainly will not weld with
consistent strength, although you can buy better 60,000 PSI stuff from
construction supply places.
Irrespective of the source, building codes allow in line splices if the
overlap is sufficient (equal to 20 times the diameter of the rebar or
something like that ... don't remember for certain) and securely tied
with wires. For ends of rebar that meet another length of rebar in a
Tee configuration, I bend the end of the Tee piece and hook it over the
straight length, which I think in most cases makes a stronger connection
than any weld would anyway.
Just some thoughts ...
73,
Dave AB7E
On 1/3/2014 10:54 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
On 1/2/2014 8:42 PM, EZ Rhino wrote:
Get eight more #4 rebars to use as diagonal
to keep the thing square while you're building
it so it doesn't turn into a parallelogram.
Great idea!
The rebar drawings never show these diagonals,
so I haven't used them in the past. But this
sounds like a great idea in the future. There
is no rule saying you can't put gratuitous
rebar in the hole.
Rick N6RK
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
|