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Re: [TenTec] Titan 425 problems

To: "Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment" <tentec@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TenTec] Titan 425 problems
From: "Ron Castro" <ronc@sonic.net>
Reply-to: Ron Castro <ronc@sonic.net>, Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment <tentec@contesting.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:53:09 -0700
List-post: <mailto:tentec@contesting.com>
It's been awhile since I have had any serious problem with my 425 with the exception of a fuse that just decided it was time to die. I replaced it and all has been well since. In the past, I did have a problem with the bias control board which burned itself up, most likely due to a lightning strike or some other event. I simply replaced the whole board with a new one from TT ($61.88 according to my notes) and that fixed the problem.

Other problems that have arisen over the years included the plate transformer shorting (took out the diode board, too), which was a fairly common problem. Shortly after it was returned from the factory for that work, a disc capacitor on the HV meter shunt board got too close to the chassis and blew up. I replaced all the caps with better ones, stuffed the board and bent the components so that there was maximum space to the chassis. I replaced the rubber grommets in fan body and mount to quiet it down a bit.

Other than pilot lights, that's all that's gone wrong since 1989. Still running on the same finals with 2kW key-down output! It's reduced to standby use since I got an ACOM 2000A in March, but it was pressed into service a couple of months ago when the ACOM quit and had to go east.

        Ron  N6IE
     www.N6IE.com


----- Original Message ----- From: "David J Windisch" <davidjw@cinci.rr.com>
To: <tentec@contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: [TenTec] Titan 425 problems


Hi, all concerned:

This amp was built in 1994 or 1995, according to TT's service dep't. It sat
apparently unused for years: no wear spots, no dings, no scratches, no
finger jam anywhere, no tracks on bandswitch contacts, no silvery pilot
lamps, and so on.

When I fired it up for testing, the QSK was inoperative. This first repair
effort was my initial contact with TT manuals and sorta-schematics*.  The
schematics omit parts and leave out nomenclature on some of the parts they
do show.  It took an effort to trace the QSK circuit out, going from board
to board, and another effort to figure out just how the QSK works, even with
the sorta-explanation in the manual.   The eventual solution was to unwind
an end-turn on an opened RF choke, and splice it.

Second attempt at testing produced a bodacious BANG, from the amp deck, I
think, and the primary fuses were toast. Didn't figure out what caused that
bang.  Replaced the fuses, and powered up without further incident.

For the first year or so, I operated the amp on c-w at the low-voltage
setting with 1500W out, and then, after another bodacious BANG followed by
RF power drop-off to about half, I went to the high-voltage setting to get
back to 1500W out again.  Didn't find anything amiss -- at that time,
anyway.

There happened later another bodacious BANG, which turned out to be the
traces to the step-start resistor in the power supply simply vaporizing. I
replaced them with #12 jumpers.

Last week, the power supply produced a couple more bodacious BANGs.

I pulled it apart, and found a popped filter cap, which I think is C6.  I
noticed that one of the two resistors in parallel with C6 is 150 ohms, not
150K like all the others. The step-start resistor was also burned open, and
the soft-start fuse was blown.

TT quoted $35 a pop for the filter caps. They're available at better prices
elsewhere.

I removed the cap and jumpered its connections.  Fired it up again, got HV
OK, but the meter pegs in the grid-current position and the red OVERDRIVE
lamp illuminates.  Same after removing the tubes.

While looking into that, I noticed what may have produced the bodacious BANG
followed by power dropping, mentioned earlier: there had been an arc and
carbonization where the plate RF choke plate-side lead was run (too) near
the middle of the choke body.  Wire-brushed the choke body windings, and
they looks OK under magnification.

Any one out there have any ideas about the grid meter problem?   I've
searched the archives on "titan or 425" and seen nothing except that it
happens.

TIA & 73, Dave,
N3HE



*Afaik, I have the matching manual.

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