I have done this mod to over twelve "D"s and the results have been
consistantly good.
John K9dx
----- Original Message -----
From: <K1ZM@aol.com>
To: <topband@contesting.com>; <cq-contest@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 12:13 PM
Subject: Topband: Installing the W8JI Keying Mod for the FT-1000 (D)
> Hello Gang
>
> I am posting this to the reflectors because I think it may help others in
> executing W8JI's keying mod to the FT1000 (D) model.
>
> Briefly, let me comment on this radio versus the MP and the MARK V.
>
> I've taken a look at the BEFORE and AFTER scope traces of the keying in
the D
> versus the MP and Mark V - and a "stock" D looks about the way an MP or
MARK
> V looks AFTER having installed the W2VJN current production mod.
>
> Given that fact, it was questionnable in my mind whether to tear into my
> radio at all - but then, I took a look at the scope trace of what a W8JI
> MODIFIED "D" keying waveform looks like and the difference is so dramatic,
> that I just decided to go ahead and "suck it up" and go for it....
>
> Now, please note - these notes refer to an FT1000D - and not to the MP or
> Mark V. Admittedly, modifying those radios requires more work....but
> happily, taking care of things on the D is really quite a simple matter.
>
> As W8JI has noted, the mod goes on the AF board at seven pin connector
J3024.
> The good news is that you do NOT need to take the board out of the radio
to
> do the mod. It can be done by just "floating" the required components
above
> the board and then insulating them when done in order to ensure they do
not
> short out into nearby components should they shift position over time.
>
> I did as Tom said and cut the wire going to pin 2 on J3024 (this is the
> second pin from the RIGHT) when viewing this connector with the radio
upside
> down with the front panel facing toward my chest.
>
> You want to follow this wire into the harness and cut it so as to leave
about
> 1.25" of wire remaining on pin 2 of J3024. Then pull the harness side of
the
> wire out carefully to expose a similar length of wire.
>
> I made up a little "jig" of the 2N3904, with the 1.5k 1/2 watt resistor
> connected between the base and the collector of the transistor - and
tinned
> the emitter to accept a "tacked on" connection.
>
> The third component required is a 10UF electrolytic at 25v, the negative
> side of which must go to ground. Perhaps not the NEAREST point - but
> certainly the EASIEST and most accessible point at which to find chassis
> ground and mount the cap is at a mounting screw for the AF board in the
> middle of the board on the front panel side. This is about 2 inches to the
> LEFT of where the cut wires wind up - and it is also an open area allowing
> plenty of room for the cap to float above the board.
>
> I chose an axial lead cap for this project (largely because its long leads
> were useful to me in spanning the distance involved) and mounted it flush
> onto a solder lug. This I placed under the board mounting screw noted
above -
> negative side of the cap almost directly on the lug. Then I dressed the
> positive axial lead with sleeving and passed it UNDER an intervening
wiring
> harness in order to get the plus side of the cap into the general vicinity
of
> where the two wires resulting from the cut to pin 2 at J3024 would reach.
>
> Once this has been achieved, it is a straightforward process to tack the
> short wire from pin 2 to the emitter of the transistor and the flying
harness
> lead to the collector. The positive lead of the 10UF cap is most easily
> tacked on last and I should note that it is this lead that suspends the
mod
> in mid air above the AF board. As an added measure to insulate the mod
from
> all other components around it, I placed some pvc electrical tape over the
> top and bottom of the mod - just in case.
>
> One other point worthy of mention is that it is a good idea to bend the
> solder lug up at a 45 degree angle right at the screw to ensure no
adjacent
> foil traces wind up being jumpered when you tighten the screw to hold the
lug
> in place. I also aimed the 10UF cap into an open area on the board - where
it
> just floats out of harms way from nearby components. It is easy to see
how
> to do this when looking at the board - and also easy to pass the positive
> axial lead UNDER the harness to the right in order to make the connection
to
> the base of the transistor where it meets one side of the 1.5K resistor.
>
> I have now done this mod twice in the last 24 hours - the first time,
because
> I was feeling my way, took about 2 hours. Much of this time was spent
just
> getting my radio out of where it is sandwiched into the 160M operating
> positon - and then getting it hooked up again. The second time doing the
mod
> took just about an hour - which includes taking the radio out of its
> operating position and then rehooking up the station again.
>
> The BEST news was hearing K9DX's comments this morning on Topband. Johjn
> said it sounded great to him. Hmm - now I only have a few more of these
to
> do......but then it's over with.
>
> Hopefully, this amplification of Toms' excellent post on March 9, 2001 is
> useful to anyone out there with an FT1K "D". It was not hard at all to do
> this mod folks - not hard at all and the results are indeed compelling
enough
> to make the effort more than worthwhile.
>
>
> My thanks to W8JI for taking the lead in getting the word out on this
> one......
>
> 73 JEFF
>
> K1ZM@aol.com
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