>Can I add a wire (or two) to the top of the post? That would put the wire about
>40 inches above ground, and I could probably use inexpensive "snap on" T-post
>wire insulators.
>Would it be better to add 1-2 feet of "extension dowels" to the post tops? More
>time and expense for a rapid-deployment Beverage?
I'd use the extension dowels. I think you want to reduce possible
signal loss to the steel posts as much as possible.
>The fence line runs NE-SW, and I can connect coax to the NE end, or I can
>"intercept" the fence line at 1/3 of the run (referenced to the NE end).
Connect to the NE end. Get the most of the length. As I understand
it, you need a simple matching transformer from the beverage to the
feedline. The opposite end is terminated with some value of
noninductive resistor.
>Ground is frozen here, so ground rods are impossible (maybe just difficult if a
>drill and a BFH are used!), but I can lay down a couple radials "in line" with
>the fence/Beverage, and I could lay down a "mat" made from galvanized chicken
>wire until Spring on "my side" of the fence.
Initially, I wouldn't worry about any kind of ground.
>To get bidirectional performance I would need two wires, right? And if so, do
>those wires need to be side by side, or would an "over/under" arrangement work?
>How much separation is required?
It doesn't work that way. You need two feed lines, each going to
opposite ends, each end having both a transformer and resistor, and
relays that switch them in or out to flip the direction.
Set it up for one direction and try to make it work, dealing with
grounding last. Then worry about bi-direction. If it were me, I'd
try to hook up to the SE end first to get reception to the northeast.
N.B. I have never used a Beverage but I am responding because all of
the other responses have been trivial.
Merry Christmas
Rob
K5UJ
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