Antennas are usually not high vibration environments, unless they
buzz/vibrate in the wind. Then it matters much more how secure are the
fastening parts. Another factor I consider is the downside of a failed
connection. An element falling off is different then a tower coming
down. Perhaps there are life safety connections such as wire locked
safety nuts in aircraft, but I haven't gone that far.
Nylocks seem to work fine for all of my antenna connections from tip to
mast. For tower legs I'm using Nord-Locks on the plate connections of
Rohn 65 where a failure is not so good. The Nord-Lock test video is at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKwWu2w1gGk
IMO, tightening to the torque spec for the grade of fastener and then
re-torquing a day or two later is the best way to keep stuff together.
Consider that structural steel framing bolts have no locking means, they
are just torqued to the max. A problem though is so many antenna
fasteners can't be so torqued properly since the elements deform. In
that case I think UV resistant nylocks are the choice (or at least all
nuts on the underside)
Grant KZ1W
On 9/17/2018 9:17 AM, Speer, Douglas via TowerTalk wrote:
I used a lock washer, torqued a first nut then installed a second nut on my
equalizer plate bolts. Is this an acceptable practice? After two years in
service, I have not seen any evidence of any loosening.
Doug, W5WTX
Amarillo, TX
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:12:04 -0700
From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <richard@karlquist.com>
To: towertalk reflector <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rohn EP instructions: "Stake all nuts"; what does
it mean?
Message-ID: <6e0c6ba1-a582-87b7-add7-bc43ff987ed8@karlquist.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
The instruction sheet that came with my Rohn guy equalizer plates states:
"Stake all nuts after assembly"
The kit of parts includes bolts, regular hex nuts, and "PAL nuts". Assembly
order is that the regular nut goes on first, then the PAL nut with the edge lip out. IE,
the flat side of it faces the regular nut.
Questions:
Do I torque the regular nut nice and tight with a wrench, then install the PAL?
Do I tighten the PAL nut finger tight, or gently tighten it just a little with
a wrench. I have no experience with these PAL nuts, but they don't look like
they would withstand much torque.
Finally:
What does "stake all nuts" refer to????
I am imagining whacking them with a hammer or something ... but that can't be
right?
Note: the Rohn drawing is dated "1964" :-) Been licensed since 1965 and have
never seen PAL nuts before.
Rick N6RK
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