There are "special alloy" rods for use with a standard propane torch
that use no flux, emit no hazardous fumes, and will bond aluminum and
many other metals and alloys. These are dead simple to use and
forgiving as to technique.
One approach would be to use hose clamps temporarily while adjusting but
when ready then permanently secure the pieces.
If you want to permanently attach pieces of aluminum such that the
electrical and mechanical integrity of the connection is secure in the
face of vibration, moisture, physical stress, etc. then consider these
special alloy rods. I got mine at the state fair but I have seen them
for sale over the internet. Sorry, but I don't recall the trade name.
Patrick NJ5G
On 8/11/2015 10:21 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
-----Original Message----- From: Billy Cox
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 7:50 AM
To: Doug Renwick
Cc: George Dubovsky ; Robert Harmon ; towertalk ; Jim Thomson
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread
Good Morning All,
And despite a rather rude comment from Doug sent to directly to
my email, here is a bit more information to HELP others perhaps.
Again, we are using clamp products in applications that may not
represent their common usage. So your mileage may vary, WFWL.
Our website shows only the more popular common designs, not the
special designs where the focus is on specific connection needs.
Doug's "simple" install method does not take into consideration
factors such as connection vibration nor repeated thermal cycling.
Let's say for example, you must hire a crane to lift and install
your new yagi. Once up there, you cannot reach the elements. If
something 'comes loose', it will be additional time and expense.
Now we have to make a critical decision:
A. Use the "simple" method outlined below that does not follow the
manufacturers instructions. It might work well, or it might not.
B. Use the method and torque settings from the manufacturer and
know you have followed the suggested install specifications.
Would that be over engineering, or simply using common sense given
risk of failure and related costs to repair the loose element(s)?
73 de Billy, AA4NU
## I have never lubed a tridon SS hose clamp..ever. If they are lubed,
Im sure u would require less tq than rated..same as SS bolts and A-325
bolts, and SAE- G5 + G8 bolts. All those have lower tq requirements
when lubed with... never seize etc.... like only 60% of the dry rating.
## I have never used anything more than a nut driver..cranked up tight.
The problem probably starts when some one starts using an open or boxed
end wrench, in which case u can apply a lot more tq vs a nut
driver. Or using
something like a .375 inch ratchet driver.
## a tq wrench, in inch lbs would be the ideal ticket, then dial it
up dead on.
One could also use a 2nd tridon SS hose clamp adjacent the 1st one, for
a redundant setup. Or dispense with the SS hose clamps..and use
3 x pop rivets like F-12 etc does. Or SS machine screws and SS
nylocks, etc.
## at the telco I worked at, the outside plant folks used thousands
of SS hose clamps,
the big ones like 4-6-8 inch types. In some cases 2 x clamps are
joined nose to tail
to increase diam. None ever broke, but all were tightened with just a
nut driver.
Jim VE7RF
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