Boxless is one way to go if the coax fits the cores, but as previously
posted I use RG142 TFE coax for the choke windings.
My latest design (in process) to avoid connectors going from the rotator
loop to the choke is to use watertight cable entry grips for that cable
directly into the plastic choke box. These are available in sizes to
fit most any coax and have an o-ring to seal the box hole. All
connections in the box are soldered and glyptol'd. Likewise if #10 wire
is used for the driven element connection, there are grips that go small
enough to clamp on it. In the end, I've never had a totally watertight
box so do drill a 1/8" hole for drainage at the low point in the box as
mounted. Note that stranded wire is not watertight, the water will
wick down the strands. Adhesive filled ring lugs help prevent that.
Grant KZ1W
it doesn't rain much here in Redmond, WA, just all the time.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/876/=vum4yl
On 2/10/2015 3:35 AM, Ian White wrote:
But why use a box with bulkhead connectors anyway? That seems to be the root
cause of all the problems.
I never use bulkhead sockets on anything outdoors, because they require
stripping the coax which creates opportunities for water leakage, bad solder
joints and corrosion - all of which can be avoided by using inline connectors.
If you don't need someplace to fix bulkhead connectors, then you don't actually
need a box either.
Would there be any problem about using inline connectors and no box at all?
That would cure your space limitations :-)
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