On 1/1/2015 8:56 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
If he has access to a milling machine or knows a machinist, saddle
clamps are easy to make, particularly if you can find some relatively
small pieces of 1" plate and you can make the flat long enough for bolt
holes instead of notches that require a backing plate.
I realize not everyone has a mill, but they are relatively cheap on the
used market. About 40 years ago, the company I worked for purchased 2 of
the same model used that I have, but theirs were strictly mechanical
feeds except the quill. They only had about 5 speeds available by
changing the belt locations on the pulleys. They paid about $7900 each.
I paid less than $3000 IIRC. There isn't a better drill press made.
The mill is RIGID and makes drilling "round" holes in precise locations
with far less risk of bits hanging and flying parts. They also make
drilling holes on a circle relatively easy. They also give you a reason
to refresh that high school Trig.
A keyless chuck, a set of collets, a few end mills, a vise, and a little
instruction are about all you need.
Used mills with power feeds and digital readouts on the X, Y, and
sometimes ZS axis for around $3000 while strictly mechanical with quil
feed can be found between 1 and 2 thousand dollars. can be found.
A local high school had inexpensive classes on using Lathes, mills,
shapers, surface grinders and welding. It would be a good investment
for the mechanically inclined even if you don't have any machine tools.
You can learn a lot of possibilities. "Beware" of Fly Cutters! The
first time you see one in operation you will know why I say that.
Speaking of Fly Cutters. They let you cut large holes with smooth
edges, but cutting holes in thin materials with one takes special
techniques and precautions.
One last precaution about working with metals. When the shavings start
peeling off never, ever try to brush them away with a hand even with
leather gloves Those things are sharp and if the bit, or what ever
grabs them the same time you do, those shavings can removes finger(s) so
quickly and cleanly you won't know it happened at the moment. The
mess is likely to alert you before the pain sets in.
Of course they also require maintenance. Mine is variable speed and the
head needs rebuilding. Some where, some one (not me) hung a cutter on
low speed and sheared the key on the quill. It works fine for what I do
and the collets fit tight enough there's no slipping. Oh! It weighs
1800 to 2000# so make sure to set it where you want it when it's
delivered and you have help. I moved mine the length of the shop, then
15 feet South, turned it around and backed it into place...alone and
with no power tools. I made a platform of 2 X 12s and used lengths of
3/4 inch pipe as rollers and a railroad pry-bar for power. <:-)) So you
know why I make that recommendation<LOL>.
73
\
Roger (K8RI)
Using 2 saddle clamps as you describe is a good idea. I use that to
support/clamp masts on top of a thrust bearing.
Doug
I wasn't born in Saskatchewan, but I got here as soon as I could.
-----Original Message-----
On 12/30/2014 5:48 PM, Byron Tatum wrote:
It might be a little pricy, but how about 2 saddle clamps used with a
pair of straight bolts. If worried about the bolts slipping out, they
do make flat metal plates with 2 holes likely of a size you need to use
for backing plates.
73
Roger (K8RI)
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