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Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Schedule 40 or 80 PVC Conduit Underground

To: Gary J - N5BAA <qltfnish@omniglobal.net>, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Schedule 40 or 80 PVC Conduit Underground
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:43:23 -0800
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Sand fill around the conduit is sometimes required by code, but it washes out if there is any grade and an opening. Compacting fill is another choice - called "5/8 and down" here, "#2 road base" in CA, the gravel is < 5/8" with the fines from crushing and it compacts hard enough to be a road surface. The goal is no rock larger than an inch or so in contact with the conduit, so graded dirt also works.

The codes here require vertical separation of low voltage and power lines, but most folks ignore that and the bury depth requirements for home-owner installed 12-2 or 14-2 UF (UF not Romex for underground!). Toss the UF in the trench before the conduit and it is less likely to be dug up accidentally.

I don't "get it" for having holes in my conduit!! Yes, there will be condensation and underground rated cables will last the longest, but WHY let water in on purpose??

Direct bury coax with self sealing is flooded with silicone grease. Trying some surplus flooded RG8 once was one too many times for me, what a mess for connectors! Silicone flooded is the gold standard for Ethernet, RG6 and POTS direct burial cables.

In conduit, I've standardized either on hardline or Buryflex and try to find polyethylene jacketed control cables since they last much longer than pvc jackets and are rated for direct burial.

Grant  KZ1W


On 11/12/2014 8:01 AM, Gary J - N5BAA wrote:
In the area I live in electricians recommend back filling the trenches with builders sand. It's not hard to do here as there is no such thing as a freeze level in our soil (water lines just covered with 3 inches of soil won't freeze) so the trenches aren't deep, but we have lots of rocks and I don't like refilling the trench with rocks - makes it too hard to dig a second time if needed - sand is easier.

What is the feeling about adding extra unused coax runs in the conduit for future whatevers?? Also, it has been recommended to me to use the Direct Bury coax even though it is going inside a conduit. It is self sealing against any possible cracks, pin point holes etc.

What do people think about running a length of direct bury 12 gauge romex electrical line with a plug on the shack end and a socket on the tower end inside the conduit. That way one can energize the extension cord when needed and have it de-energized at all other times.

Could one run the long 50 ft sections of 4 inch black drain line with a few holes drilled in the bottom to provide for drainage of condensate?? Or the 10 foot white pipe with the holes drilled in one side to ensure drainage.

Gary J
N5BAA

-----Original Message----- From: Patrick Greenlee
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:28 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Schedule 40 or 80 PVC Conduit Underground


Very good advice, guys.  I'll add that if you are burying conduit
underground consider going significantly larger than the minimum to pull
your current needs through.  The cost difference is not a big deal so I
standardized on 4 inch and find that eventually I need the extra space. If you bury deeply enough such that any traffic driving over the finished job will not crush the thin wall S&D then that is easier to work with and less expensive. I'm currently (except for hiatus for weather) burying a pair of
4 inch PVC S&D pipes in the same trench, a 280 ft run to service three
towers with 140 ft spacing.

A minor caveat RE not worrying about moisture or water in the conduit. If the coax or other wires or whatever are essentially moisture or water proof
then no worries but some "stuff" will let water get in over time. I use
buried PVC conduit to protect from critters chewing up the unprotected wires and it is very convenient to be able to add cables without having to trench
again.

If you are concerned about water vs some particular lines you are running
and they are small enough you can pull them through the low pressure drip
irrigation roll tubing rated for 100 PSI that comes in 100 ft rolls for
about $12 at the big box stores and then pull that through your conduit.
Irrespective of naysayers comments to the contrary I have done that easily
single handed several times.

Best of luck with your project.

73,

Patrick    NJ5G



-----Original Message----- From: Roger (K8RI) on TT
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:53 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Schedule 40 or 80 PVC Conduit Underground

On 11/11/2014 9:45 PM, Larry wrote:

2" will work fine with a snake and wire pulling soap.  Check on how the
electricians do it.  I've seen them pull so many wires through conduit
(steel and not EMT) that there was an electrician every 6 feet or so,
pounding on the conduit with hammers (in time)  You couldn't pull them
out. If you were lucky, you could pull out a few, one-at-a-time until
they were no longer compressed, but we're talking real world, "I'm gonna
reuse this--I hope"

"For me", I'd  use conduit that would easily hold at least twice as many
cables as I planned on using.  I'd need convincing to use something as
small as 2".

I make it a practice, not to have splices or connectors in the conduit.
I usually have them within about a foot of each end.  I end the conduit
in a junction box large enough for a grounding plate for all coax
jackets, whether I plan on grounding in there or not.  I try to allow
for the unseen future even if it does cost a little more.  A little more
now, can save a LOT of work and money later on.  If the run is flat and
no more than a 100-200 feet, I don't even glue the sections together. I
make the run slightly long so the junctions are under pressure and wipe
the inside coupling surfaces with a light coat of silicone grease. Never
had a sealing problem and after years in the ground, they come right
apart.  Easy to put in and easy to take out.

Typically the conduit is to protect the cables and little else, but they
sure can make additions a lot easier later on..  I used to install a "Y"
at the low points with a cap on the unused side. I'd add a few small
holes for drains.  I don't bother any more.

Conduit can be schedule 40, 80, thin wall plastic sewer pipe, plastic
water pipe. IOW, A slippery tube of sufficient size to handle the
cables, plus possible future expansion.    Unless in a very dry
environment, I'd avoid thin wall/EMT as it will rust and the price goes
up rapidly with size. Any more, I don't worry about water in the
conduit. If the coax is unbroken it shouldn't be a problem.

Leave a messenger cable in the conduit plus a length a bit longer than
the run coiled in a junction box at one end or the other.  It can easily
be pulled back so you can pull in additional runs from either end.  Just
make sure the ends are hooked to something solid to prevent pulling an
end into the conduit, out of reach.  I use 1/4" braided nylon. Cheap and
slippery, but don't pull it around sharp corners.  It will eventually
cut into PVC conduit.

73 and good luck,

Roger (K8RI)


I used 3 inch sch 40. I had a electrical pull snake for pulling coax and control lines down 150 feet of conduit without any trouble - not even pull soap was required.

73, Larry  W6NWS

-----Original Message----- From: Drax Felton
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 9:29 PM
To: Allen Brier N5XZ
Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Schedule 40 or 80 PVC Conduit Underground

I use 4" French drain line surrounded by gravel to let the moisture out.


I cannot imagine being able to slide coax 160 feet in 2 inch conduit. That would be tough. I've built 5 towers all in excess of 180 feet from the house and always used 4" and it's hard enough.







Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 11, 2014, at 7:16 PM, Allen Brier N5XZ <n5xz@earthlink.net> wrote:

I am running about 160 ft of 2" conduit underground for cabling. Is Sch. 80
required or will Sch. 40 do?

Allen R. Brier N5XZ
1515 Windloch Lane
Richmond, Texas 77406-2553
(281) 342-1882 (Home)
(713) 705-4801 (Cell)


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