On 9/3/2014 1:30 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 9/2/2014 8:58 PM, john@kk9a.com wrote:
I forgot to say, we often use a synthetic cloth over the last lay up,
called "Peel Ply". After the last lay up cures, you simply peel the
cloth off and it's ready for the next layer.Also, wiping down a piece
that didn't have peel ply used, with Acetone will make it a bit sticky
and the next layer will adhere much better. IIRC that is explained in
the text.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/G3_files/GIII_Diary.htm shows the use of
peel ply and types of cloth and coarseness of the weave that can be
used. Fine is good, but you reach a point where the cloth becomes too
fragile to easily and completely remove. It also helps to "wick off"
excess resin requiring less skill and waste.
This is much cheaper than purchasing cloth labeled "Peel Ply"!
73
Roger (K8RI)
Fiberglass "lay ups" come in a wide variety of strengths, or it is
probably more accurate to say the strength of fiberglass components
varies widely,
It depends on the density of the weave, the angle of the weave to the
axis of the component. A dense weave with Vinyl-ester resin of a low
viscosity like Dow Derakine (sp?). Multi layers with alternating weave
at 45 degrees and linear is extremely strong. The cloth for each layer
is saturated with resin, laid up, and then the excess resin is
squeegeed out just to the point where the cloth is not dry. You can
use a lot of cloth and resin learning how to make flat layups, and
then complex shapes without wrinkles. That and this resin can have a
mixed working life of 10 to 15 minutes. That doesn't give you much
time to make individual layups.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/G3_files/GIII_Diary.htm The 8th photo
from the top shows making a complex shape out of a dense cloth on the
45 deg bias with no wrinkles.
60 feet is well beyond the rating for 25G with no antennas. However,
the fiberglass is probably much stronger by several times than the 25G
which gets its strength from the shape.
73,
Roger (K8RI)
Your fiberglass inserts were amazingly strong to hold up 60' of
freestanding
Rohn 25g! I would not try that using a standard base. Are there
different
strengths of fiberglass material?
John KK9A
To: "w2ttt@att.net" <w2ttt@att.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: tower insulators
From: Stan Stockton <wa5rtg@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 23:46:42 -0500
Gordon,
No, sorry for misunderstanding.
Here is what I said regarding the 3/8 rod...
"After seeing the towers bend in about a. 60 mph wind, I used 3/8
fiberglass
rod to guy them to small, homemade anchors - rod welded to a short
piece of
angle. Each anchor is in about a bag of Quickcrete."
The towers were previously unguyed. I believe the inside diameter of
Rohn
25G
legs are around 1.125 and that is the diameter of the rods that
insulate one
section from the other. - of course with holes drilled to accept the
normal
sized bolts. Then I also have a fiberglass plate that spans the joint,
attached above and below the splice with galvanized U bolts.
What K8LX understood is correct, and yes, the fiberglass rod I used
is very
strong stuff. I got it from a company that makes those long rods with
galvanized fittings on either end for the utility companies - the
ones that
are
rated for about 20,000 pounds in a straight pull. The fiberglass rod
was
1-1/4" diameter and I had it turned down on each end of maybe 12 inch
long
pieces
The towers are guyed at about the 25 foot level with the 1.125" rod
in the
legs
and the 3/8 fiberglass rod for guy wires and the fiberglass plates
that span
the joints. I am not a bit worried about the 35 feet above the guys,
given
that the towers survived some big winds over about 8 years with no
guy wires
at
all.
I looked, and there is a photo under low band antennas at k5go.com
73...Stan, K5GO
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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