Yet another fine idea. Thanks Gary.
Patrick AF5CK
-----Original Message-----
From: GARY HUBER
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 9:42 AM
To: Patrick Greenlee ; TT TowerTalk
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] COAX on CRANKUP-how to hang
With respect to your comment regarding: If the coax were run through a
weather/UV resistant sleeve of sufficient diameter... I found Non-Metallic
Conduit is able to accommodate a PL-259 and any RG-8 sized coax. NMC is
also fairly flexible. At about a dollar a foot, its not cheap, but it is
good insurance against UV, abrasion, and other risks to the cable jacket of
your coax.
73 ES DX,
Gary -- AB9M
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Greenlee
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 8:46 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] COAX on CRANKUP-how to hang
I'd love to hear from folks who raise and lower crank-ups remotely without
problems as I aspire to be able to do that with two upcoming tower installs.
As regards coax getting blown by wind into the tower lattice or other
positions such that it could be damaged by being pinched between tower
sections or similar. Two probable concerns regarding damage to the coax: 1.
the jacket and maybe the braid could be nicked/scraped or more severely
damaged or 2. the coax could be severely mangled or sheared by its getting
well into the way of moving tower components. For these damaging scenarios
to happen the opening in the tower that would catch/harm the coax must be of
at least some minimum dimension as measured in coax diameters. So increasing
the effective diameter of the coax should alleviate that condition. If the
coax were run through a weather/UV resistant sleeve of sufficient diameter
it would not be subject to getting into harms way.
I suggest that some types of garden hose might make suitable protective
sleeves. Canvas hose of the type used for fire hose is another candidate.
It is available in various sizes. If doubtful of its UV/weather resistance,
paint it with a good UV resistant paint. I bought the best exterior grade
UV and weather resistant paint I could find yesterday for just over $40/gal
after taxes. (Lowe's) This is way more than you'd need unless you have a
very very tall tower.
Patrick AF5CK
-----Original Message-----
From: w5gn@mxg.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 7:13 AM
To: kr2q@optimum.net ; towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] COAX on CRANKUP-how to hang
My experience is quite different.
With either standoffs or a single support at the top,
lowering the tower when there was much wind would
frequently push the slack coax into the tower sections,
requiring a stop and either wait or raise a little and
try again.
I finally supported the coax bundle only at the top,
and added two rope lines so I could pull the coax away
from the tower during lowering.
And I then ran the rope thru pulleys on the adjacent
house and use them to hang the coax so it's not on
the ground.
I also found the remote control unit a complete waste of
money, as I always want to be at the base of the tower
to pull the coax away and observe what happens.
Barry, EI/W5GN
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
kr2q@optimum.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 6:39 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] COAX on CRANKUP-how to hang
I have owned crank-up towers for close to 40 years...in multiple locations
and using multiple types of crankup towers (Heights, Hy-Gain, US Tower). I
still own 2 crank-ups.
In all cases, I just let the coax and rotor cable "hang down" right along
side of the tower.
I never used standoffs or coax arms. Not sure why they are necessary.
Nothing ever got tangled or "hung up" in the tower. I think that would be
really difficult to do.
I mean, why would coax (eg, RG8 type) want to or be able to "decide" to bend
and enter into the tower lattice? It is already handing from the very top
to the very bottom. For me, it would take an extraordinary act of nature to
"convince" the coax to defy gravity, bend into a small loop, and "enter" the
tower lattice.
de Doug KR2Q
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