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Re: [TowerTalk] shrink w/adhesive

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] shrink w/adhesive
From: TexasRF@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 08:18:02 -0400 (EDT)
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
GM All, the only heat shrink/glue failure mode I have seen is separation of 
 the glue from the inside of the shrink material. It does get hot inside my 
metal  barn in the summer so no surprise!
 
The larger the shrink diameter, the thicker the material after  shrinking. 
As the material gets thicker, the more difficulty for removal  later. Using 
a heat gun greatly reduces the effort needed to cut and remove the  old 
shrink material. 
 
After all is said and done, my personal favorite technique is using the  
shrink over the rear part of the connector and a couple inches of the coax  
for reinforcement only, leaving the connector shell clear to rotate  for easy 
disconnect and testing. Then after mating connectors, cover  with 3M rubber 
tape over both pieces of heat shrink and the exposed  connector parts. That 
is followed by a couple of layers of vinyl tape for UV  protection.
 
This provides a hermetic seal, is easy to open for testing and covers the  
possibility that the heat shrink has a small leak. Kind of a belt, 
suspenders  and Velcro solution to a sometimes vexing problem. The condition of 
the 
glue  inside the shrink tubing is immaterial and in fact, doesn't even need 
to be the  glue type.
 
73,
Gerald K5GW
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
In a message dated 8/9/2013 5:51:44 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
k1ttt@arrl.net writes:

If it is  stored in a not too hot place it will probably last much longer
than that  on a shelf.  I think the problem is if you store it too warm it
seems  to start shrinking very slowly so it may not meet the original size
spec,  but it should still melt and shrink to the end size.  I was given  a
box of it that was 'expired' probably 10 years ago and it still seals  up
just fine.

Just remember, it is fairly easy to put on, but almost  impossible to take
off... and it does require significant heat to properly  melt and shrink, 
the
cigarette lighter you use for plain little shrink tube  won't do it, think
more like propane torch or professional heat  gun.

David Robbins K1TTT
e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
web:  http://wiki.k1ttt.net
AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or  telnet://k1ttt.net


-----Original Message-----
From: K8RI  [mailto:K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net] 
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013  07:57
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] shrink  w/adhesive

On 8/9/2013 1:00 AM, Ron W8RJL wrote:
> I've been  water proofing coax connectors for years the old school way 
> (with no  problems). I'm ready to try the new shrink tube with adhesive 
> which  seems l
ike a good way to go. I just measured a PL-259 shell diameter at  about
0.7 inches. I see the shrink rate is about 3:1 so I assume 1"  diameter
should work for a PL-259 with RG-213. I also noticed on eBay  some
manufacturers state that the shelf life is only about a year or less  so it
might be wise to buy just
what you need as opposed to  stocking up. I've seen references to 3M and
Molex brands. Any  comments/recommendations appreciated. If this topic has
already been beat  to death you can reply direct 73, Ron W8RJL email  (w8rjl
at
arrl.net)

I've had no trouble using the two sizes of 3m  carried by the local
electrical supply. I've been using it for some years  and not noticed any
shelf life problems. Some has to be close to 5 years  old, or  older.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm


73,

Roger  (K8RI)

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