On 5/28/2013 10:52 AM, Joseph or Ruth Patrick wrote:
If the bearing races are good then you could just replace the bearings.
You should be able to buy them at most bearing supply houses. The top of a TB-3
just lifts off and the bearings spill out everywhere.
If that TB3 is like mine this could be a bit misleading. On mine you
have to remove an Allen set screw from the inside. Then rotate the
bearing to get the balls from the race out of that hole. the top will
not lift off until the last ball is out.
It's a good idea to do this over a baking pan with sides at least an
inch or two high, or as Joe says in a Tupperware dish.
However it would be unusual for the bearings to be out of round. It's
possible, but usually the TB3s an 4s wear from setting in one place for
a long time which wears pits in the races. You have SS balls in an
Aluminum race which means the race is much more likely to wear than the
balls.
When you get it apart, the race should have a lot of white or gray
powder in it from wear, Clean this powder out carefully. I use a paint
brush with the bristles cut to about an inch long and a vacuum cleaner.
A you can just take the races out doors and use an air hose to blow
them out, but the key is "out doors" Otherwise you have that Aluminum
powder getting into everything.
If the races have a series of indentations worn in, there's not a lot
you can do. If small, I'd not worry about them, but if they feel
pronounced, it's time to pitch it. Maybe someone on here has figured
out how to repair them.
The grease or dry argument has been going on for years. I leave 'em
dry, but I think some one recently had ROHN tell them to do what the wanted.
BE CAREFUL with the races. I've had them wear to the point where the
edges are like razors and you can easily get hurt when they are that bad.
Nuther nasty storm going through...Time to shut down.
73
Roger (K8RI)
Put the bearing in a piece
of Tupperware to catch the bearings. As I recall the bolts are not stainless.
They do have a point on one end and a square head. Just take it apart, If the
races are good then get new bearings. and put it back together. NO GREASE. The
bolts could probably be galvanized or stainless. Just use the proper
installation for whatever type you use. Grade 5 or up.It's been awhile since I
have looked at one so correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe you even have the bearing
one your bench. Much easier to work on Good Luck
73 DE K4XZ Joe Patrick
God Made Man
Sam Colt Made Them Equal
________________________________
From: John W <xnewyorka@hotmail.com>
To: TowerTalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 10:12:07 AM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Is Rohn TB3 Thrust bearing OK to use with "flat spots" on
bearings?
I have an old Rohn TB3 that came with a used tower I bought. Cosmetically it
looks good and spins without any unusual noise, but it feels like the bearings
are somewhat oval in shape instead of round. It's hard to explain, but it's
almost like a sort of ratcheting effect, like there is a little notch every few
degrees, so that it almost 'clicks' into place, but without a clicking sound.
I haven't tested it with a load, but I assume it would probably spin OK with
only a very small increase in friction.
Can it be used like this, or does it need to be repaired? If it needs to be
repaired, how does it come apart and where can I obtain replacement bearings for
it?
On a related note, is it recommended to use stainless bolts for the set screws
that hold the mast in place, or galvanized? (The originals are gone.)
Thanks,
John
W2ID
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