Thanks... But what is the range of the remote control?
73
Jim W7RY
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Pete Smith" <n4zr@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 5:26 AM
To: "TowerTalk" <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] 300 MHz Remote Switch
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my message recently about this
> device. I've done a bit more reverse-engineering/testing, and thought
> the result might be of interest. If the following writeup is
> uninteresting, click Delete now, and Merry Christmas to everyone.
>
> _All About the CDKZQ-8L Remote Switch_
>
> This unit is a very inexpensive 8-relay remote switch.It uses a 315-MHz
> radio link between the battery-powered controller and the receiver, and
> each of its 8 relays is rated to handle 20 amps at either 14 VDC or 125
> VAC.
>
> The controller has 8 buttons.The first two are larger, but all appear to
> operate identically, except when programming (see below).
>
> You must take the receiver unit out of its plastic case to program
> it.Once you have done so, place the receiver unit so that the
> programming button and its associated LED are at the lower right.The
> eight relays are arranged like the pins on an IC, and their numbering
> follows this convention.Hence, relay 1 is at the upper left, relay 4 at
> the lower left, relay 5 at the lower right, and relay 8 at the upper
> right.
>
> Each relay is SPDT/normally open, and three terminals are available for
> the user, labeled A, B, and C.B is the common terminal, A is the
> normally open side of the relay, and C is the normally closed side.
>
> The receiver unit requires 12V DC.DC is supplied to the 2-terminal strip
> at the top center of the unit, when positioned as above.The strip is not
> marked, but the terminal nearest the large diode next to it is "+";the
> diode will keep you from making a mistake, by blocking voltage from the
> unit if you connect it incorrectly. One spec sheet suggests that this
> diode may also enable it to be powered by 12 VAC. I have not tried this.
>
> The current drawn depends on the operating mode and, in
> latching/non-interlocked mode, on the number of relays activated
> simultaneously.With just the receiver operating, the unit draws 5.6 mA.A
> single relay raises that to approximately 56 mA, and each additional
> relay adds about 50 mA.
>
> _Programming_
>
> The receiver/relay unit can be programmed to operate in one of three
> modes:
>
> 1.Latching -- press a button, and the corresponding relay is energized,
> and stays energized until the button is pressed again.
>
> 2.Non-latching (momentary) -- press a button, and the corresponding
> relay is energized so long as the button is pressed.Release the button,
> and the relay is de-energized.
>
> 3.Interlocking -- press a button, and the correspondingrelay is
> energized until another button is pushed.
>
> Programming is very simple.Momentarily press the programming button on
> the receiver unit.The LED next to it will light.Then press the button on
> the controller corresponding to the mode you want, as numbered above.The
> LED will flash quickly a number of times, indicating that the receiver
> has been programmed.To clear the programming and return the unit to its
> original state, press the programming button again.
>
>
> --
> 73, Pete N4ZR
>
> The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at
> www.conteststations.com
> The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at
> reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
> spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 AND now
> at arcluster.reversebeacon.net port 7000
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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